#Braindump; Training, Climbing & Common Sense Tips

This is a bit of a project which will progress over time, the intention is to make a list of common sense approach tips for people who train to climb, whether it to get fitter, better, compete or push it to your maximum!

Feel free to send suggestions through;

1. Stages. Gradually increase your training volume and load in small stages. Pushing too hard too soon could lead to injuries. 
2. Consistency. Progression comes from lots of small steps. Normally this is training followed by rest and recovery. Too much training and not enough recovery can lead to over training and a greater chance of becoming injured. 
3. Your inner voice. If you have negative thoughts in your head you’ll waste your climbing session, be positive. 
4. Practice with purpose. Make sure your sessions count and every session somehow benefits your performance, if it’s not, look at the end goal and change it. 
5. Reflection. All your training and sessions should reflect what you aim to achieve. If your end goal is to onsite 6c then make sure your doing lots of ground work on 6b+ endurance, for example one & ones on 6b+ and four by fours on 6b could help with this. 
6. Have a Routine or a Mantra. Often some form of ‘word with yourself’ can help through the stressful moments to help regroup and refocus. 
7. Targeted training. To improve at any discipline of climbing it is essential to be specific. If you intend to enter the British Lead Climbing Championships you need to be able to lead climb and lead climb well at a specific grade so target your training specifically to what you want to get out of it. 
8. Comfort. To progress in climbing you have to push yourself hard, that means pushing yourself out of the comfort zone, that means falling off, sometimes lots, but to progress you must push through it!
9. Progress. Focus on your progress, knowing what you need to do and break down how you’re going to get there. 
10. Weaknesses. Work them! If you are rubbish at slopers and you know the route you want to do is full of them, then train on slopers, set problems for yourself in the boulder wall or on lead routes to help you work your weaknesses.
11. Back up plan. Whether it’s a route, redpoint, boulder problem, onsight, competition, etc, think about what could happen on route and where it could happen. Write them down and next to each one write down a backup plan. This way you have mentally rehearsed problems and though about them before they happen.
12. Swat up. If you are visiting a new crag to do a specific route, climbing at a competition in another country or off bouldering in the Peak, swat up on the venue, location, logistics, how your going to get there, the walkthrough, what the wall is like, angles, how many quickdraws you need, etc. Familiarity with the place your visiting will help take some of the nerves out of what your going to do and will be one less stress to think about.
13. Partners. Train and climb with people who you can trust and who motivate and bring the best out of you. It’s pointless having people around you who are negative and drag the sessions down.
14. Goals. By setting goals you know what you want to achieve and when. By using the SMART (ER) system (Specific, Measurable, Achievable, Realistic, Timely (Evaluate and Revisit)) you can break your long term goal into manageable targets meaning your end goal is more achievable.
15. Route Reading. Route reading properly can mean the difference between moving smoothly through a section and wasting energy matching hands, searching for feet or down climbing to fix sequences and should be practiced. Things to consider when route reading include finding the rests, clipping positions, cruxes, alternate sequences, pacing and when you’ll need to move fast or slow and the distances between holds. Route reading can be the difference between success or failure.
16. Visualisation. Think about the your best ever climb, take some time to relax and go through how you felt, your emotions, how you moved on the rock, if you were leading how was your gear, what sounds could you hear, now picture the route or problem you want to do and go through the process but visualise yourself on it, climbing the same way you did before. By visualising you can take a lot of the pre climb nerves away as you are mentally rehersing and going through the process.
17. Guidance. Don’t be afraid to ask for some guidance if needed, from peers, coaches or on the internet, although the latter should not be belived all the time!, there are so many tweaks and things that wok differently in climbing for different people so have a good range of tools to draw from.
18. Planning. Plan when and what your going to eat, how your going to get to the venue/crag, go through how you will warm up well in advance and practice. if your in a competition make sure you know your start time, you could have travelled a long way to find your disqualified for being late.
19. Warm Up. A good dynamic warm up before you climb will get you both mentally and physically prepared. Remember, when you get on the wall whether it’s a qualifier in an international competition or a boulder problem in the peak that your wanting to flash, you should be properly warmed up and ready to pull as hard as you can.
20. Know the start. Take time to look at the start of the route, there is nothing more disheartening than spending loads of time looking at the route, finding the crux and all the rests, thinking you know exactly what to do and where and then you pull onto the wall and fall off the second move, take time over the start.
21. Relax. Nervous tension will naturally cause tightness in your muscles, tight muscles do not preform as well as loose properly warmed up relaxed muscles. Practice drills in your training sessions to get you in a relaxed state of mind. 
22. Pacing. Knowing when to climb fast and when to take your time is important and different for everyone, some people will climb fast through the easy sections and slow through the tricky cruxy section and vice versa, try different speeds and work out what suits you best but always make sure whatever style you choose you keep enough in the tank to top the route!
23. Chalk. Chalk can more often than not be a placebo, you do not need to be dipping your hand in your chalk bag every 2 moves, hanging around dipping could time you out in a competition or cause you to burn out on a route. Make sure you have enough on your hands to get a good way up the route before having to re chalk up, and if you do it as a habit, try to break the habit, practice in training session with out chalk or with chalk on only at the start of the route and no chalk bag, you'll save time and energy.
24. Mental notes. Make a note of the holds that you plan to rest and chalk up from and stick to them, this will give you a focus on route and stop you taking unplanned breaks.
25. Shoes. There are shoes for pretty much every style of climbing make sure you are wearing the right ones but most importantly make sure they fit you properly, don't be tricked into thinking that because 'X' wears 'XX' type of shoes 3 sizes too small you have to do the same to be able to climb as hard.
26. Laces/Velcro. While we're on shoes, make sure your shoes are properly done up before you climb, no further explanation needed!
27. Distance. If the route your planning to do is a 35 meter 7b make sure you have done the distance in your training and endurance work to get you up it! 
28. Drills. Drills are as important to practice as doing routes and boulder problems. They not only create muscle memory but they create move memory and in turn give you the confidence to do that move you were dreading doing 2 meters above that dodgy bit of gear, or like me, 1 foot above the last bolt!
29. Clipping. Practice clipping from all different angles, positions and with different hands, you never know in a competition or on a route the position you might have to clip from. The clip can in some instances be the crux, in a competition if you don't clip in sequence you will be disqualified.
30. Fit for purpose. Make sure the kit you are using is well maintained and fit for purpose, if your looking at a big fall the last thing you want to be questioning is how old and trashed your rope is!
31. P.P.P.P.P.P. - Purposeful Practice Prevents Piss Poor Performance 
32. Listen to your body - especially if your injured! (Tom Bond)
33. Spice it Up. Variety is good - its not good to train one area specifically for too long! mixing it up is good for you. (Tom Bond)
34. Food and Drink. It is important to ensure you are properly fuelled and hydrated before you climb, in a competition it is often overlooked or nerves gets the better, work it into your pre climb/competition routine how much you need to have and that way it becomes second nature.
35. Muscle Memory. Your body will naturally preform better at tasks it has already practised, if you are training for routes, do routes similar to what your goal is.
36. Redpionting. If your goal is to redpoint a route you will have had an opportunity to study the route in great detail, you should ensure you know the moves, style, crux, pacing, clipping positions rest positions and every intimate detail about the route to ensure a good clean ascent.
37. Onsighting. If your plan is to onsight a route you need to work as much as possible before hand to ensure you will be able to deal with all the on route problems you may encounter from not knowing the route. Spending time shaking out, reading moves on route, matching hands, swapping feet, awkward clipping positions and stress can all be worked in the comfort of the climbing wall.
38. Good Intentions. Train as you intend to climb. If you want to climb well and get the route done you want to then you are going to have to work at it. Pick your route goals well, find similar routes and styles of climbing and work them, these will all add to your toolbox of knowledge.
39. Relax. To preform at your best make sure you are staying as relaxed as possible on route, that way you wont be over gripping and burning out or getting pumped.
40. Use your legs. By using your legs wisely you can push, pull and generate momentum through sequences to take the pressure of your arms.

Opposing Muscle Strength

Opposing muscles are the muscles that you do not use while climbing but are used to stabilize joints and move them in the opposite direction. Training your opposing muscles is very important when training strength to prevent injuries and to improve the strength of you climbing muscles. When strengthening your opposing muscles you are stretching the muscle fibers of your climbing muscles and that will allow them to be able to contract more, thus giving them more strength. These muscles can be strengthened at the end of a workout and will not affect your workout.

Some of the opposing muscles and strength training drills are:

Back of Your Forearms

The muscles on the back of your forearm are generally very weak compared to your muscles on the front of your forearms. This can lead to wrist problems because the wrist joint is not stabilized properly.

To strengthen the muscles on the back of your forearm there are several good drills.

Reverse wrist curls where you keep your palms facing the floor and curl your hand back towards your elbow. This can be done with or without weight, or by rolling a weight up with a broom handle or something similar.

Pushing and opening your hands in sand. This is great for constant resistance throughout a range of motion. Place a closed hand in a pile of sand and push down and out with your fingers as you open your hand.

Just opening your hand and extending your fingers as far as possible. Try to keep the back of your hand in line with your forearm as you do this. This one is good because it can be done anywhere; at school, in a car, or even at the dinner table.

Triceps

While triceps are used alot when climbing they are not as used as often as your biceps and this can lead to elbow problems. Triceps are easy to strengthen. Chair dips, pushups, and tricep presses are all ways of strengthening these muscles. Not only that but stronger triceps will increase the range of motion in your lockoffs.

Lower Back

Look at the core strength section for some drills to strengthen your lower back.

Power

Finally the fun stuff. Dynamic movement is a very important part of climbing. While it is more apparent on boulder problems it is just as useful on routes. Using your momentum from a previous move to do the next allows you to do moves easier, using less energy, so you won't be as tired as you move up a route.

Power is a combination of timing and strength. The timing of when to contract different muscles is something learned through practice and training. Generally as you work a boulder problem you are not getting much stronger but you are getting more powerful, learning how to use the strength at the right time. Strength does not come quickly but gradually over time.

There are some key times when power is very useful:

Deadpointing

Deadpointing is when you move dynamically for a small hold and must be accurate. To complete a deadpoint you must be able to generate the momentum required (power) and be able to slow down your momentum, tighten up, at the last instant in order to grab the hold correctly. This requires both timing and power.

Dynos

Yes there will be competitions out there where you may be required to do small or large dynos. This means generating enough momentum to be able to reach a hold that you can't reach statically. The difference between dynos and deadpoints is that with deadpoints you can usually keep your feet, and one hand on and are going to a small hold.

Campusing

Campusing is when all your momentum is being generated by your upper body and is a very useful application of power on some routes. There are instances where it is easier to campus a move than to try and keep your feet on. If the feet are too far away or perhaps too high it may help to have the ability to campus.

Power Drills:

Deadpoint Drill

As described earlier deadpointing is when you move dynamically to potentially a very small hold. You must be accurate and be able to tighten up at the right moment to stick the hold. In order to practice this set up different small holds about eight feet off the ground. Place several good holds between four and five feet off the ground, and then place lots of good and bad footholds between two and three feet off the ground.

Now make some moves from the good holds to the bad ones that require you to be dynamic. Start by using good feet until you are comfortable sticking the bad hand holds, then move to progressively worse feet. Switch the type of holds that you are going to, pocket, pinches, edges, slopers etc... to help increase your ability to latch these holds. You can also increase the distance to these holds and force yourself to blow your feet off in order to reach the holds.

When you are starting do not try to deadpoint to a hold that you must crimp. This can lead to injury very easily and is an advanced skill. Only attempt this from large feet first even then do not try to weight the crimp too much right away.

A good variation on this if you are limited for space is to climb one handed along a wall or just in a fixed area. You will need to generate momentum with one hand and then move it very quickly in order to be able to grab the next hold. Move around between different hold types.

The biggest thing about deadpointing is the timing so as you do these drills concentrate on what feels good and efficient. Some times you will go past the hold, sometimes you won't reach it. Try to determine when you are pushing with your legs, when you are pulling with your arms, and when you start to tighten up in order to grab the holds.

Eventually you will not have to concentrate on these factors when you are deadpointing.

This is why good climbers make it look easy, timing.

Campusing

Campusing is a very good way to build dynamic ability and timing. Here you will have a different goal than the campusing described when strength training, you should be trying to move dynamically and do bigger moves. It is okay to match hands and throw as far as possible. Modify the holds that you are throwing to, and from. The smaller the holds the harder they are to catch, and the harder they are to generate momentum from.

There are four really good variations on campusing for power:

Campus - Big Throws

Start with both hands on the same hold and throw as far as possible to catch a hold, then campus back down to the match and go up with the other hand catch the hold and back down. Do this in sets of three to failure. If you are doing more than 10 reps per set (10 per hand) then you should make the moves bigger, or holds smaller. Do not add weight when campusing.

This drill focuses more on the generation of momentum from the lats and biceps.

Campus - Go Agains

Start with both hands matched on a hold. Go up with one hand, catch a hold and then go up with the same hand again. Go as high as possible (you'll have to fall a couple times to figure this out) then come back down one hold at a time. Then go up with the other hand in the same manner.

This drill focuses more on generation of momentum from triceps and lats.

Campus - Both Hands

Start with both hands matched on a hold. Go up to a hold about 2-3 feet away with both hands at the same time. Go as high as possible, and come down with both hands at the same time as well, but try to do smaller distances.

A good variation is to go up two feet, down one foot, up two feet... with both hands always.

Campus - Bouldering

Try to campus boulder problems that you have already done. This will mean that you have to generate momentum laterally as well as vertically, and have to grab holds from many different angles. You will have to experiment with this one but it can be very effective.

NOTE: I am strongly against any under 18 using a campus board and novices should be fully supervised in the use of them, the BMC have some guidance notes here; http://www.thebmc.co.uk/campus-boards-guidance-on-use  

Bouldering

Last but not least is bouldering itself. Bouldering is a very fun and efficient way to gain power. If you want to build hand strength set a problem with small holds, if you want power set a problem with big moves. Varying the style of climbing will allow you to have a fun and motivating workout. Not only that but it is easy to take a problem down and put another one up.

Try to approach a bouldering workout like any other. Have a goal, a set approach and make sure that you regulate the time between attempts and rest times. Do no try a problem a hundred times in 10 minutes. If you are trying a single move then it may make sense to try it three times in one minute separated by a three to five minute rest.

You may need to stay warm during this time so try and climb other easier problems if you are getting cold.

Core Body Strength

Core Body Strength

Core body strength is the ability to use muscles other than your arms to hold you in different positions. Some of the core muscles that are used for climbing are upper and lower abdominals, lower back, hamstrings, and calfs. Generally think of the core muscles as the ones that allow you to keep you feet on a roof, or to pull yourself onto a rock on without bending your arms. Body tension or the lack thereof is a result of core body strength and knowing how to use it.

Core Body Strength Drills:

Leg Lifts

Dead hang from good holds and lift your legs straight in front of you, bending at the waist. Lift your legs until your body forms a 90 degree bend and lower slowly. Try not to swing or kick your legs up. If you cannot stabilize yourself have a partner stop your swinging. If you cannot do a leg lift with your legs straight then bend your legs at the knees to 90 degrees. Keep your knees bent at 90 degrees for the whole range of motion both up and down. Do this until failure or repeat as many times as possible in one minute (if you cannot do this for a minute straight). Complete three sets with a one minute rest between sets.

A good climbing variation on this is to find a roof and grab a large hold with both hands. Lift your feet off the ground and lift one foot at a time and place it on a foothold. To make this harder put the feet farther away and practice accuracy with your feet. Modify the holds from underclings, sidepulls, and straight downpulling so simulate different climbing movements. The key is to place your feet directly onto a hold, tighten up (let your feet take some weight) and then release.

Banana Boats

Lie on your back and extend your arms straight above your head. Straighten your legs and then bend at the waist about 20 degrees (form a banana). Slowly rock back and forth keeping your lower back on the ground and pointing with your toes and fingers.

Try to move slowly and don't let your head or feet touch the ground. Do this until failure or repeat as much as possible for one minute. Try to do this in sets of three with a one minute rest in between.

Swimming

Lie on your stomach and extend your arms straight in front of you. Move your arms and legs up and down in a small range of motion trying to keep your quads off the ground. Try to keep your legs straight, but your arms may be slightly bent.

Superman

Start on your hands and knees. Raise opposite arm and leg (left arm, right leg) at the same time to a horizontal position. From there lift the arm and leg in a reverse crunch and lower back to horizontal (one rep). Without letting you hands or feet touch the ground pull up again and repeat until failure. Do this with the other leg/arm for a minimum of one minute each side. Try to do three sets of this exercise for each side.

Strength and Power, what's the difference?

Strength and Power are two different abilities that muscles may have. It is easy to confuse the two terms but the most simplistic way to describe them is this;

1. Strength - The ability for the muscle to stay contracted under a maximum load.
2. Power - The ability to generate the contraction of strength.

In short, Strength is Static and Power is Dynamic.

If we look at climbing terms, there are many different types of strength involved in climbing:

• Hand Strength - Strength required to hold on.
• Arm/Back Strength - Strength required to bend your arms.
• Core Body Strength - Strength required to keep your feet and hips in place.
• Power - Ability to move quickly and in control. maintenance 
• Opposing Muscle Strength - Non-climbing muscles that you must strengthen in order to keep joints and muscles balanced.

The strengths can be trained using isolation movements, focusing on a specific set of muscles, while power is best trained using compound movements, possibly numerous muscle groups with movements involving more than one joint.

Muscle Stretching (Author Unknown)

I was going through all my documents and research I have built up over the years and I found this as a word document, I can't remember where it came from and who wrote it... so I can't credit anyone, but it is a pretty good piece on Muscle Stretching and I thought it was worth sharing... 

When you work out or engage in sports you stretch your muscles and ligaments beyond normal daily limits. Extreme muscle stretching may damage the muscle or ligament. There are several good stretches to limber your muscles prior to working out. Controlled warm up and muscle stretching adds flexibility needed for the extended movements during sports. The flexibility you get from stretching will improve your climbing performance.

Advantages of Muscle Stretching: 

1. Before Sports: Muscle stretching improves circulation and blood flow--gives muscles the added flexibility to move freely 
2. During Sports: Muscle stretching improves coordination, balance, accuracy and makes your muscles less prone to injury 
3. After Sports: Muscle stretching improves recovery time 

Training.

Stretching helps improve muscle imbalances. A muscle imbalance is caused when some muscles are more warmed up and ready for exertion than others. Daily activities do not require the same extension and range of movements your muscles get during sports. If your muscles are not stretched equally, they are said to be imbalanced. Muscle imbalance makes you less coordinated and can contribute to injury such as pulled or strained muscles.

Types of Muscle Stretching.

Two types of muscle stretching help prepare an athlete for best performance. The stretching that provides best results is "Static" and "Dynamic" muscle stretching.

1. Static Muscle Stretching. This type of stretching is the way to increase flexibility. Hold the stretch with low force for a long time…this is static muscle stretching. It's important not to use too much pressure. Remain alert to your body's automatic stretch reflex. Keep the degree of stretch and force under the level of the stretch reflex point. Hold the low force against the pull of your muscle for a number of seconds. Count the seconds silently to your self. Repeat the stretch in sets for the same length of time and force. You can create passive muscle stretching by holding it with yoru other arm or leg, or have a partner apply pressure. 
2. Dynamic Muscle Stretching. This type of stretching is done by gradually increasing the stretch distance and speed of movement with each successive repetition in a particular direction. Control the movement so the limit of the muscle gradually increases. Do not use quick movements for dynamic muscle stretching. Slow controlled side to side movement of legs or arms or torso is dynamic stretching. Perform dynamic stretching in sets of 5 to 10 repetitions. Continue to increase the range of motion until you reach the maximum without over stretching. Listen to your body.

Prepare for Muscle Stretching Routines.

Warm up. Before you start muscle stretching routines you need to warm up. Go to the warm up wall for some low intensity bouldering patterns. Do low intensity bouldering for about five minutes using big holds and big foot holds. Alternately you could jog, do jumping jacks, a few sit-ups and pushups. Prepare muscles for stretching by increasing blood flow. Your warm up should be just to the point when you just break a sweat. The goal of the warm up is to increase your heart rate for about five minutes. At this point you are ready for stretching your muscles.
Stretch Reflex. If you skip the warm up or try to stretch too aggressively, a nerve reflex called the "stretch reflex" takes place. Stretch reflex is an automatic response caused when nerve fibers are stretched. Stretch reflex causes your muscle to contract against the direction of muscle stretch. This could lead to mild pulled muscle or pain which reduces athletic performance. By being aware of the stretch reflex you can prevent it. Breathe deliberately during muscle stretching...it helps you relax and control the stretch. Stay relaxed while you stretch, work up to flexibility gradually and stay in control of your muscles to help prevent the automatic stretch reflex.

Muscle Stretching Routines.

1. Slow Torso Twists. Place hands on hips and twist left then right in sets. Use the dynamic stretching technique to stretch the torso muscles. Be careful not to twist suddenly and do not use swinging momentum to increase the range of twist on the muscle or you risk overstretching. Flexibility in the torso muscles will improve important movements used in climbing.
2. Backbend. Put your palms of your hands flat on the floor and arch your back both directions. This stretches and ads flexibility for muscles in the lower back.
3. Modified Hurdler's Stretch. Extend one leg behind you and the other in front. Lean forward and backward to gently stretch the quadriceps. This stretch limbers muscles needed to perform leg climbing moves such as extending to reach a foot hold or heel hook, or lifting your leg high for a foot hold.
4. Thigh Stretch. Stretch your adductor inner thigh and abductor outer thigh muscles. Stretch the front and back of the thigh quadriceps muscles and back of the hamstring muscles. This will give you full range of motion for climbing moves such as drop-knee and getting close to the wall with legs spread.
5. Toe Touches. Keep your knees straight and your back bent. Place your feet about a meter apart. Touch your right toes with both fingertips, then the left toes. Continue to extend using dynamic stretching. Gives you flexibility for climbing moves needed to extend the leg while the body position is bent. 

Do not:

• Do not ignore your body. Do not stretch to the point of pain. 
• Do not stretch a muscle beyond its natural range. 
• Do not bounce when performing muscle stretching. 
• Do not hold your breath. Continue to breathe deliberately while stretching 
• Do not extend to the point of muscle stretch reflex. 

Do:

• Do warm up your muscles for least five minutes prior to stretching. 
• Do pay attention to your body, feel your muscle's natural limit. 
• Do start stretching slowly and work into your full extension. 
• Do be patient. Take your time and do it right. 
• Do breathe deeply to your full lung capacity. 
• Do concentrate on staying relaxed. 
• Do stretch even when you are sore. 

Summary of Muscle Stretching.


Muscles and ligaments are not immediately ready for the extreme range of motion required in sports. Prepare for muscle stretching routines with a 5 minute warm up, enough to break a sweat. After warm up, perform muscle stretching routines until muscles are limber. Avoid muscle stretch reflex, which can cause damage to the muscle and hinder performance. The flexibility you get from muscle stretching will improve your performance in sports.

Finger Board training

Training Anaerobic Endurance with "Pyramids"

Pyramid training simulates the way your forearm muscles might work in climbing a long boulder problem or medium-length sport route. In this way, it tends to train forearm endurance over pure strength. As shown in Figure 6.2, one run through the pyramid involves seven hangs on the same pair of holds.

The rest interval between each hang is just five seconds, so a complete cycle will take just under one-and-a-half minutes. Take a one-minute rest, before performing another pyramid cycle on a different set of holds. Your goal is seven to fifteen total sets.

As you progress through the sets, strive to hit all the primary grip positions including full- and half-crimp, all the two-finger pocket "teams," pinch grip, and open-hand slopers. It's good to vary the size of the holds used for a given set based on your level of fatigue, but be sure to stay "on schedule" in terms of the timing of your hangs and rest intervals.

Use the same pair of holds and follow each step precisely with just a five second rest between each step.

That is, hang: four seconds, rest: five seconds, hang: six seconds, rest: five seconds, hang: eight seconds, rest five seconds, and so on.

Training Contact Strength with "Repeaters"

Repeaters may be the single best fingerboard regimen as they will build contact strength (i.e. maximum grip strength). One set of repeaters involves a series of ten, maximum-intensity hangs on the same pair of holds. Each hang should last just three to ten seconds each, so you may need to wear a 10-pound weight belt (or use smaller holds) to make this a difficult task. Rest just a five-seconds between each of the ten hangs. The complete set of repeaters should take around two minutes and, of course, lead to a growing forearm pump.

Take a two-minute rest before launching into your next set of ten repeaters. Use a different pair of holds for each set of ten repeaters, beginning with your most "problem" or difficult grips, and then gradually progress to larger holds as you fatigue. It's also good to vary the grip positions trained to spread out the neuromuscular stimulus. For instance, you might begin with shallow two-finger pockets, then progress to small crimps, narrow pinches, small slopers, shallow three-finger pockets, medium crimps, deep two-finger pockets, medium slopers, medium crimps, and large slopers. Therefore, performing one set of repeaters (ten repetitions) for each of these ten grip positions would result in a total of 100 near-maximal contractions--a pretty good finger workout!

More ideas for Finger Strength Training can be found on Eric Hörst site here; http://www.nicros.com/training/articles/top-5-finger-strength-training-exercises/

Mental Control (Author Unknown)

I was going through all my documents and research I have built up over the years and I found this as a word document, I can't remember where it came from and who wrote it... so I can't credit anyone, but it is a pretty good piece on Mental Control and I thought it was worth sharing... 


Mental Control

Often the difference between winning and losing depends on your mental control. Getting and keeping your head together can be much easier if you use some of the tools of sports psychology: 1) Develop self-confidence; 2) use mental imagery, and; 3) control doubt and negative thoughts. These techniques help you develop and master mental control. Sports psychology is a large field requiring many years of study. In climbing, especially climbing competitions, routes are designed at the peak of a climber's ability. This information is not all-inclusive and is intended to provide a general overview of gaining mental control to improve your performance and spark your further personal study.

Develop Self-confidence to Enhance Mental Control

A climber's self-confidence is probably the greatest asset in developing your mental control over your body's reaction to stress. Self-confidence doesn't happen by simply deciding to be confident - it takes a deliberate and planned effort. Self-confidence is not a matter of "fooling" yourself into believing something false. Just the opposite - it is based on accurately knowing yourself. Self-confidence allows you to take appropriate risks and climb at the top of your ability.

The most effective way to build self-confidence is by setting performance-based goals. Set attainable and measurable performance goals and make sure you achieve them. Then set new goals and achieve them. Through this process you learn your own abilities. By knowing your own capabilities you avoid surprise failure and develop confidence in yourself. Believing in yourself helps you develop mental control
Your goals to attain mental control should be measured in terms of performance, not achievement. An example of an achievement goal is: "win the competition". This is not a good performance based goal. Examples of performance based goals are: "Increase pull-ups by 1 per week"; or, "increase endurance training by 1 minute per session"; or "increase dead-hang time by 10 seconds per week", etc. There are many aspects to achieving mental control to improve your climbing performance. Develop as many performance based goals as you can manage. Design your goals to be achievable within about a week or two weeks time. This will give you a sense of accomplishment, confidence, and help you develop a keen sense of your own abilities.

Mental Imagery (described below) is also useful for building self-confidence and control. This is useful if your lack of self-confidence or other "mind game" factors are interfering with your ability to achieve a goal. However, a note of caution. It is possible to use imagery to improperly build a level of over-confidence. Using imagery without rationally considering your actual abilities can lead to over-confidence and unexpected failure, which will cause a loss of confidence. Over-confidence is just as bad as a lack of confidence - maybe worse. Over confidence does not lead to mental control, it is a misreading of your own ability. If you are over-confident you will not give the climb 100% effort and may lead you to attempt something that you are not capable of doing. It can lead to an unexpected failure, which can destroy your self-confidence.
Self-confidence should come from a realistic understanding of your abilities based on incrementally achieving performance-based goals.

Mental Control using Imagery and Positive Thinking

Using imagery, you imagine smooth controlled climbing, proper rests, shaking, clipping, breathing, good technique, etc… all the way to the top. Imagery can and should be used during previews, before a difficult move, at night in bed, waiting in a line at the store, on a bus or passenger in a car (but not as driver). Think and imagine yourself climbing and moving like a climber you admire - or visualize yourself making a particular move. Visualize the feeling, momentum, and balance. Visualize only correct climbing technique and form. Gain mental control of yourself and the climbing route by focusing and creating positive mental imagery.
Visualizing reinforces climbing movement in your mind - so use it to reinforce good movement. Visualizing is training for your mind. Do do not dwell on bad moves. Analyze what went wrong then visualize the correct movement from the beginning of the sequence through the end of the section. Imagine the feeling of the holds/rock, your momentum, your breathing, where you chalk up - be as vivid with your imagery as you can. It is a skill that needs to be developed just like physical skill.

Imagery can also be used to help you relax and lower your stress level. This can be helpful in competitions or in many other situations in climbing. Imagine a peaceful, relaxing, happy or fun place. Make it as vivid as possible by visualizing every detail, the warm sun, feeling of joy, smells… every detail that goes with your "happy place". Use this imagery technique to reduce stress and maintain mental control.
Imagery can be used to push your limits, for specific moves, for general technique, to break through a mental block, to reduce stress, or to build up your self-confidence. Be aware that imagery can be used to an unhealthy extreme. Use imagery and positive thinking within realistic boundaries to push yourself to new heights and break through barriers. This is an effective tool when used correctly.

Mental Control over Doubt and Negative Thoughts

In the same way positive imagery "teaches" your mind through a visualized reinforcement, negative thoughts also teach your mind - the wrong thing. Get control of your mental thoughts. Make a conscious point not to allow negative thoughts to dominate. Answer negative thoughts with positive thoughts.
Sometimes negative thoughts are difficult to get out of your head. I may help to physically speak the positive out loud several times. If you are in a crowd or around other people do it sub-vocally. It is a stronger reinforcement when spoken. Respond to negative thoughts with positive thoughts based on clear and rational assessments of your known ability.

Become aware of your thoughts. Normally thoughts will come and go and you will hardly notice. Watch for feelings of inadequacy, criticism, feelings of stress, worry. Awareness is the first step to gaining more mental control. As you become more aware of your thoughts you can learn to control them.
But how do you not think of something? If someone says "do not think of a red balloon", you immediately visualize a red balloon whether you want to or not. Not thinking of something is more difficult than thinking about something. When you get a thought that is counter productive, make a conscious effort to visualize it's opposite. Speak the opposite if possible, or at least speak it sub-vocally. For example: "red balloon": now think of a green balloon and say "green balloon" out loud. It is now green. Use this technique to conquer doubt, negative thoughts and reinforce your good technique, confidence, and positive self-image. You are what you think, so think what you want yourself to be.

Summary

These are simple tools you can use to help break through mental barriers, maintain mental control under stressful situations and build new self-confidence. It may well take you to a new level of climbing. Top athletes, coaches and trainers in every sport agree the proper application of sports psychology provides a significant boost in performance level. Self-confidence will help you climb at your best. Using mental imagery and controlling doubt will help you press through mental barriers. Developing these simple techniques are as important as your physical training.

Previewing a Route in a Comp...

Although this is geared towards a competitor standing at the bottom of a route, about to have the route preview, almost any of it can be adapted to normal onsite "route reading"... hopefully you can take something from it and use it for your own climbing...

Tara & Molly at the EYC Ratho 2011

Previewing a route properly can mean the difference between moving smoothly through a section and wasting energy matching hands, searching for feet or down climbing to fix sequences. This is a skill and one that should be practiced. There are several things to consider when previewing a route such as rests, clipping stance, cruxes, alternate sequences, pacing, and distances between holds.

Here are a few tips that will help when previewing:

• Know the Start of the Route - One of the worst things that can happen is to not know where the start of your route is, or to preview the wrong route. Make sure you know where you have to start and that you are looking at the correct route. If no one else from your category is there then chances are you are not looking at the right route.

Some competitions do not specify the starting holds and you can start on what you can reach. Make sure that you choose starting holds that will put you in the correct sequence.

• Work Down Through Confusing Sequences - If you get to a section of the route where you can not determine the sequence look ahead and find the next hold that you know how to grab and work backwards. For instance if you find a confusing sequence and you see that five feet above is a hold that you know you have to grab with your left hand then you can find the previous hold that your right hand would have to be on and work the sequence down. Once you have worked back down through the sequence go back up it and continue on the route.

• Judge the Distance Between Holds - Know the distance between holds and what you are capable of. If you know a wall has 4'x8' panels or 3'x3' panels then it is much easier to measure the distance between holds, look at the panel sizes and approximate the distance. This will help when looking to skip a move or when you are worried about a large move.

• Walk Around - Most routes at larger competitions will be on very high steep walls. It is almost impossible to see the entire route from one location. Walk around and look at the route from numerous angles.

This does more than just allow you to see the whole route. If you are wondering how large or incut a hold is then stand back and get a di_ernt look at it, or walk way off to the side and try to see behind it. How much you can walk around will depend on the size of the area that you are given for the preview. In some competition you may be allowed to walk into the crowd or at least ask them to move.

• Dance the Sequence - When you are previewing it may help to move your hands and feet in the sequence that your are previewing. There are two reasons for this one is to help you memorize the sequence and the other is to make sure that you are not missing any moves. by moving your body in sequence of the route you will be able to remember the moves easier in isolation, similar to dancing. To be told a dance and then have to do it is alot harder than doing the dance as you are learning it.

• Talk to Others - Other competitors in your category will have Different opinions on sequences. This may be due to height, strengths or perceptions on the quality of the holds. In addition some people are better at reading a sequence that others. Talk to others and figure out what they are doing. It may be that you are reading it wrong or that you are assuming a hold is better than it is. This will also help so that when you go back to isolation you have the same terms for holds.

• Identify Crux Clips and Sequences - If you can identify the crux of a route from the ground then that will allow you to get set up for it better. Cruxes are not necessarily moves but can be clips as well. If you identify a crux clip then you can decide where the best place to clip it will be. It may be that you have to climb past it a little ways before clipping, or you may have to reach way up to clip it to avoid clipping in the middle of the crux.

• Plan Your Pace - It is just as important to identify the easy sections of a route as it is to see the cruxes. If you can spot the easier moves then you will know to move slower, chalk up and rest through these sections. You will also know where to move quickly to avoid wasting energy fooling around in the harder sections. Practice this on routes that you are onsighting. Try and move slow through the easy sections and quickly through the harder ones.

• Helpful Instruments - IFSC rules state that you are allowed to use any non electronic device to help preview or record the route. Basically this means that you can sketch the route or use binoculars to help preview the route. It is probably best to practice sketching a route numerous times at home or in local competitions before doing this at a large competition. It can take a long time to sketch an entire route. Drawing out small sections to discuss with others may help though.

• Use Your 40 Seconds - Before stepping onto the route you are given 40 seconds to do whatever you want. It is best if you get into a routine where you do the same thing every competition but here are a few suggestions.

1. Look at the confusing sequences. Chances are you have talked to someone in isolation about these sequences so make sure that what you decided to do will actually work.

2. Look at the first few moves. Make sure that you know the firstmoves on the route. You can get very nervous on a route if you do not know the sequence leaving the ground.

3. Massage your forearms and chalk up. Just stand there looking at the route and keeping your forearms loose and relaxed.

4. Be focused. Do what you have to do in order to be focused. This will be different for different people so try and perfect this at local competitions.

5. It also helps to be able to adapt on a route. If the sequence you saw in preview will not work you should be able to identify this on the route and quickly change your sequence to a better more efficient one. To do this it helps to always be looking two or three moves ahead. If you know you have to get your left hand on a hold that is a couple of moves away then you know that you must climb a certain sequence that will end with you left hand on that hold.

A good drill for this is to get on routes that you would normally onsight and not preview. Every move look ahead and call out your next two moves. This forces you to be looking ahead and constantly knowing the next few moves without knowing them from the ground.

Mental Preparation - Visualisation

Visualisation

One of the major differences between great climbers and good climbers is their ability to visualise a route. Good climbers visualise from a third person angle, watching themselves as if they were looking through a camera. Great climbers visualise from a first person angle looking at each move through their own eyes.

Try and visualise yourself climbing a route. Now try and visualise each move as though you can see your hand moving towards a hold, your foot reaching for each foothold.

Can you see the difference?

By visualising in first person mode you are preparing yourself for what the route will actually look like when you get on it.

Next time you are stood at the bottom of a route and doing your route read try to visualise yourself climbing it.

Urban Tooling

With there being little opportunity in Leicestershire for tooling or ice climbing, we make do with what facilities are on hand...

12 tips for climbing...

To help improve your own climbing ability you need to learn some basics and practice good climbing technique.

1. It is important to always Warm Up properly before you start climbing. Your muscles and ligaments don’t function if they are tight and cold and you are at more risk of injuring yourself.
2. Take time to route read before you climb a route, identify the crux sequence, crux clips and most importantly where you can rest on a route! Work down through confusing sequences from a obvious hold if you cant work up it.
3. Avoid over gripping, your grip strength is the first to go!
4. Work on balance as this will help make hard moves easier if you can get in balance first..
5. Keep your body close to the wall.
6. Use your legs and feet to take your weight, not your arms. Your legs muscles are much stronger so use them!.
7. Arms should be used for balance and shifting weight, not holding weight. When doing moves and sequences that require upper body strength, move quickly through the sequence.
8. Use momentum to peak at the dead point, practice this technique..
9. Combining both static and dynamic elements of climbing technique will determine your speed of climbing.
10. Using the right techniques at the right time will give you a huge advantage.
11. Learn to rest on a route/problem, muscles will perform longer with short rests, working this will help develop endurance.
12. Have fun!

Knee Drops and Flagging

Kneedropping and flagging are both ways of using your feet to position your body for either moving or stabilizing. This section will deal with these two techniques for movement.

Kneedrops

Kneedrops occur when you backstep you foot on the same side of your body as the foot. For instance if you put your right foot out to the right and it is placed as a backstep then you knee will be pointing in towards you rather than away from you. If your foot is higher than where your knee normally would be and you turn your knee in and down then this is a deep drop knee, the classic definition of the term.

This technique is very useful for holding your hips against the wall on steeper angles, it is not that useful for slab climbing. If your hips are against the wall then you are able to pull across your body with your other hand.

Try this. On a slightly overhanging wall start with your hands at chest height on two straight down pulling holds that are about shoulder width apart. Place your left foot on a foot hold directly below the handholds at a comfortable distance. Take your right foot and place it just below hip height about two feet to the right. Turn your right knee in and down and try and pull your right hip against the wall. This should make it easier for you to reach with your right hand out and up. Do the same thing out to the left. You can also try and climb into these positions and then out of them. It helps to rotate in and out of kneedrops.

Flagging

Flagging is when you only have one foot on a foothold. Even without another foot hold the other foot can be used to stabilize or to generate momentum. This is accomplished by flagging. There are roughly three types of flagging:

• Normal Flag - the leg that you are flagging is out to the same side. If you have your right foot on a foothold and place your left foot out to the left. The left foot can be smeared or in the air.

• Reverse Outside Flag - the leg that you are flagging is crossed behind the leg on the foothold. If you have your left foot on a foothold and cross your right lag behind your left leg.

• Reverse Inside Flag - the leg that you are flagging is crossed in front of the leg on the foothold. If you have your left foot on a foothold and cross your right left in front of your left leg. This flag is particularly useful for avoiding a foot match.

The degree to which to flag will depend on what you are trying to do. On a move that requires a flag you may need to play around with how much you want to flag. It will depend on how far you have to move, what your other foot is on and where, and the size of handholds you are using. Try and climb one footed to see where flagging is useful and where it is not. Remember to try all three types of flagging in order to build these moves into your climbing repertoire. Below Orrin Coley kindly demonstrates the techniques explained in this post