Power

Finally the fun stuff. Dynamic movement is a very important part of climbing. While it is more apparent on boulder problems it is just as useful on routes. Using your momentum from a previous move to do the next allows you to do moves easier, using less energy, so you won't be as tired as you move up a route.

Power is a combination of timing and strength. The timing of when to contract different muscles is something learned through practice and training. Generally as you work a boulder problem you are not getting much stronger but you are getting more powerful, learning how to use the strength at the right time. Strength does not come quickly but gradually over time.

There are some key times when power is very useful:

Deadpointing

Deadpointing is when you move dynamically for a small hold and must be accurate. To complete a deadpoint you must be able to generate the momentum required (power) and be able to slow down your momentum, tighten up, at the last instant in order to grab the hold correctly. This requires both timing and power.

Dynos

Yes there will be competitions out there where you may be required to do small or large dynos. This means generating enough momentum to be able to reach a hold that you can't reach statically. The difference between dynos and deadpoints is that with deadpoints you can usually keep your feet, and one hand on and are going to a small hold.

Campusing

Campusing is when all your momentum is being generated by your upper body and is a very useful application of power on some routes. There are instances where it is easier to campus a move than to try and keep your feet on. If the feet are too far away or perhaps too high it may help to have the ability to campus.

Power Drills:

Deadpoint Drill

As described earlier deadpointing is when you move dynamically to potentially a very small hold. You must be accurate and be able to tighten up at the right moment to stick the hold. In order to practice this set up different small holds about eight feet off the ground. Place several good holds between four and five feet off the ground, and then place lots of good and bad footholds between two and three feet off the ground.

Now make some moves from the good holds to the bad ones that require you to be dynamic. Start by using good feet until you are comfortable sticking the bad hand holds, then move to progressively worse feet. Switch the type of holds that you are going to, pocket, pinches, edges, slopers etc... to help increase your ability to latch these holds. You can also increase the distance to these holds and force yourself to blow your feet off in order to reach the holds.

When you are starting do not try to deadpoint to a hold that you must crimp. This can lead to injury very easily and is an advanced skill. Only attempt this from large feet first even then do not try to weight the crimp too much right away.

A good variation on this if you are limited for space is to climb one handed along a wall or just in a fixed area. You will need to generate momentum with one hand and then move it very quickly in order to be able to grab the next hold. Move around between different hold types.

The biggest thing about deadpointing is the timing so as you do these drills concentrate on what feels good and efficient. Some times you will go past the hold, sometimes you won't reach it. Try to determine when you are pushing with your legs, when you are pulling with your arms, and when you start to tighten up in order to grab the holds.

Eventually you will not have to concentrate on these factors when you are deadpointing.

This is why good climbers make it look easy, timing.

Campusing

Campusing is a very good way to build dynamic ability and timing. Here you will have a different goal than the campusing described when strength training, you should be trying to move dynamically and do bigger moves. It is okay to match hands and throw as far as possible. Modify the holds that you are throwing to, and from. The smaller the holds the harder they are to catch, and the harder they are to generate momentum from.

There are four really good variations on campusing for power:

Campus - Big Throws

Start with both hands on the same hold and throw as far as possible to catch a hold, then campus back down to the match and go up with the other hand catch the hold and back down. Do this in sets of three to failure. If you are doing more than 10 reps per set (10 per hand) then you should make the moves bigger, or holds smaller. Do not add weight when campusing.

This drill focuses more on the generation of momentum from the lats and biceps.

Campus - Go Agains

Start with both hands matched on a hold. Go up with one hand, catch a hold and then go up with the same hand again. Go as high as possible (you'll have to fall a couple times to figure this out) then come back down one hold at a time. Then go up with the other hand in the same manner.

This drill focuses more on generation of momentum from triceps and lats.

Campus - Both Hands

Start with both hands matched on a hold. Go up to a hold about 2-3 feet away with both hands at the same time. Go as high as possible, and come down with both hands at the same time as well, but try to do smaller distances.

A good variation is to go up two feet, down one foot, up two feet... with both hands always.

Campus - Bouldering

Try to campus boulder problems that you have already done. This will mean that you have to generate momentum laterally as well as vertically, and have to grab holds from many different angles. You will have to experiment with this one but it can be very effective.

NOTE: I am strongly against any under 18 using a campus board and novices should be fully supervised in the use of them, the BMC have some guidance notes here; http://www.thebmc.co.uk/campus-boards-guidance-on-use  

Bouldering

Last but not least is bouldering itself. Bouldering is a very fun and efficient way to gain power. If you want to build hand strength set a problem with small holds, if you want power set a problem with big moves. Varying the style of climbing will allow you to have a fun and motivating workout. Not only that but it is easy to take a problem down and put another one up.

Try to approach a bouldering workout like any other. Have a goal, a set approach and make sure that you regulate the time between attempts and rest times. Do no try a problem a hundred times in 10 minutes. If you are trying a single move then it may make sense to try it three times in one minute separated by a three to five minute rest.

You may need to stay warm during this time so try and climb other easier problems if you are getting cold.