tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-27811702142171266002024-03-14T10:53:58.103+00:00Just Another Blog...a bit of a mish mash... climbing, training, coaching, bouldering, ice climbing ...
lots of nothingness in one place!Iain McKenziehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01883953044352848041noreply@blogger.comBlogger51125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2781170214217126600.post-74770164548821075982023-11-03T18:50:00.000+00:002023-11-03T18:50:56.080+00:00Day Case...<div>
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This is what happened in London, I will remove it in a few days, it is just for the select few that I have chosen to show this to, save me going through it in detail again... this is what i remember... please do not pass this on to anyone else... </div>
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“So you’re a climber …” that was the last thing I can remember hearing before the general anaesthetic kicked in… </div>
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I was in London for what was supposed to be a straightforward minor day case procedure, I was due out at 2pm and Jim was waiting. We had skimped on the hotel the previous night, it was a right shit hole… I am sure it was used as some dirty stop off for hookers and there clients, but at £65 for the night between the two of us we were not complaining.</div>
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Jim had come down to sign me out, because I was going under a general for the day case procedure, I needed someone to take me home, and to be honest I didn’t fancy the train journey back to London, having had a general, the chances were I would wake up in Sheffield or Nottingham, this was not to be the case, instead I woke up in recovery at 2:30pm.</div>
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“there have been a few complications Iain” said the nurse.</div>
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I was aware for an excruciating pain in my bowel… I needed a poo…</div>
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“I need the toilet” I said to the nurse, hoping she would just let me get up off the bed and stroll over to get rid of this pain.</div>
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“you don’t need the toilet, you have had surgery and there have been a few complications, we have had to attach you to a catheter, and your bag is empty.”</div>
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I looked, there was a blue tub running straight out of me, how truly undignified I thought. But the pain in my stomach was unbearable, I needed to go…</div>
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“nurse, I need a poo, I have got to go” I informed her.</div>
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Of she went, bonus I thought, as my stomach was cramping again..</div>
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She returned with a bed pan, shit, I thought, I can’t do this.</div>
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“Nurse, I am having stomach cramps.. I need a proper poo”</div>
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She looked disgruntled but she unattached me from my drip, lowered the bed and duly escorted me and my catheter to the toilet, I was worried about the blue tube falling out … but I wasn’t about to ask about how it would stay in, my stomach pain was horrific and I felt as though I was about to shit myself.</div>
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“we will leave the door open in case you have any problems” she said… great I thought, all the world and sundry are going to be exposed to me doing the toilet, at this moment in time, I didn’t care too much about that.</div>
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I sat down and tried to balance the blue tube, in a position where it was not painful, and waited expecting to feel the relief of a nice poo… but no.. there was more pain, unbearable pain.. It was a combination of hot fire and needles, coming straight out of me, blood, thick lumpy blood was running down the tube, not into the bag but down the tube and dripping into the toilet bowl..<br />
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As I stood up the blood was not only running down the tube but it was running down the inside of my leg from my bum…</div>
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The pain was unbearable… the room went swirly..</div>
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I woke up in bed again.</div>
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“we are going to have to take him back in… “ it faded off and the nurse cut in “Iain, how are you feeling?”</div>
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I felt weird, sort of numb, a floating sensation, gradually moving up through my boddy, I looked down and the catheter was still there, except they were pulling clumps of clotted blood out of it… there was blood all over the place, all over my legs, sheets…</div>
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“Iain, how are you feeling?” said the nurse. “his Blood Pressure is dropping.. We need to.. “ faded off again with the nurse right in my face ..</div>
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“IAIN, How are you feeling?” she said sternly…</div>
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“I feel.. Weird…” I replied. “weird.. in what way?” she replied…. “We need to decide what we are doing, his blood pressure… “ was cut as the nurse asked … “weird in what way Iain, Iain, how are you feeling… whats weird?”</div>
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“weird in a numb sense, running towards my head, kind of floating, I cant feel anything.. “ I couldn’t, it was the best way I could describe it…. My thoughts were brokesn and quickly brought back to what was going on as I heard</div>
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“put him back under now..” from the voice I hadn’t identified, I felt a cold rush going through my right arm and everything drifted off. I can remember thinking.. Was this what it was like to die, would it feel this peaceful.</div>
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I woke up again… was it all a dream.. I wonder where Jim is.. The time was 3:45, well according to the clock.. That pain… it hurt .. I was shaking, I couldn’t stop shaking… I wasn’t cold, just shaking and the pain, unbearable I was aware of someone talking to me..</div>
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“Iain, can you hear me?” said the nurse. I looked to my left and saw the familiar face.</div>
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“I can hear you” I replied. “whats going on… I can’t stop shaking… I am in pain, can you make it stop… whats going on?” it all seemed to come out at once…</div>
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This time I was aware of a whole lot more going on, I was connected to two separate drips in my left hand, something in my right hand, there was wires attached to my shoulders and chest… but the pain…</div>
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“why am I shaking and why am I in pain, whats …” there was a rush through my right arm and I was drifting off again..</div>
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“Iain, how are you feeling?” said the nurse.</div>
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Fine I thought, I glanced around, I was still hooked upto everything, there were other people about me, I recognised the surgeon and his registrar, the nurse, and there was someone standing on my right who was holding something to inject into my right arm….</div>
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“Iain, are you still in pain?” said the nurse.</div>
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“no… whats going on?” I said.</div>
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“the operation had some complications and we had to stop, we could not proceed” explained the surgeon “from that there is some internal bleeding which we are trying to stem”</div>
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I glanced at the catheter which instead of being full of urine was in fact full of blood, I was also lying on what appeared to be a nappy sheet that had blood all over it.</div>
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“we may have to put you back under, open you externally and re-stitch, this is a last resort, we are going to try to flush you but your blood pressure keeps dropping you too low while you are under, we need you conscious to do it”</div>
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Flush me out… open me up… where is Jim and what time is it…</div>
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“do you understand what I am saying?” asked the surgeon abruptly</div>
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I presume so, but flush it, how are they going to do that…</div>
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“Yes I understand” I didn’t feel it appropriate to ask too many questions.</div>
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“Iain, are you still in any pain?” asked the nurse</div>
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“no, I still feel like I need the toilet though, I don’t suppose…” she smiled, first smile I had seen all day.</div>
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“the surgeon is going to attach a large syringe type thing to the catheter and push fluid into your bladder, and then extract it, this is going to be very uncomfortable, but you have to bear with it, and stay alert” the nurse explained.</div>
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“Just do whatever you need to do” I said, my thoughts were running away with the fairies and I did not like the idea in any way shape or form. This is like winning the lottery, stuff like this does not happen to me.</div>
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The surgeon and his registrar re appeared with a thing that required two hands to carry it, this was a syringe??? Bollox I thought, they are not going to use that.. How wrong could I be.</div>
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The catheter bag was disconnected and this thing was connected to the tube, that blue tube… </div>
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The room was swirling again, and the pain was unbearable.</div>
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“Iain, you need to stay with us, you have to try to ignore what is going on, concentrate on something” said the nurse as fluid was forced up the catheter and into my bladder.</div>
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Easy for you to say … you are not lying here … my thoughts ran off and I could hear the beeping of my heart rate on the machine above my head… concentrate I thought.</div>
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That beeping became the only thing in the room… it was getting faster, and I could feel it in my body… but… that pain… was excruciating..</div>
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“nurse, the pain.. “ I felt a rush go through my right arm and everything was going numb… what pain I thought.</div>
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I seemed to lie there for an eternity, wincing as they continually pushed stuff in and sucked it out.. Eventually after being flushed 6 times it started to clear and there was a steady flow of bloody urine running into the catheter.</div>
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I was express fed through an IV drip to make me wee, and it seemed to be steadying out at what appeared to be a very dilute bloody orangey red colour.</div>
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The pain was just more of an uncomfortable pain, a guy with an ultrasound turned up to do a scan, “..there is some fluid trapped behind you bladder, this is nothing to worry about, it will be absorbed by the body in due course…” I was advised.</div>
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Jim was allowed into recovery at 6ish, he had been sat by the bed I was supposed to be back in by 2pm.</div>
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“you will be held in till your urine is clear and you stop bleeding, you need an IV drip and also IV antibiotics, so the earliest you will be out is Monday”</div>
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Jim went back to Leicester… I was allowed to leave recovery at 8:45pm and taken to the ward where I would stay till Tuesday.</div>
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So going into hospital for a simple day case procedure is not all it is cracked upto be… I went in on Thursday at 7am and was discharged on Tuesday at 12pm… I still need to have put right what went wrong… </div>
<br />Iain McKenziehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01883953044352848041noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2781170214217126600.post-42852193678633666242014-01-06T11:31:00.001+00:002014-01-06T12:00:19.682+00:00Ironman Training current 4 week plan.I have been asked by a few people what I am doing and how I am working it, so in short, my training is a little something like this.<br />
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I am working on a 6 days on, and 1 day off basis and the sole purpose of the next 4 weeks is to build both a base layer fitness a bit of distance and technique.<br />
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<li><strong>Day One</strong><br />Gym 45 minutes - TRX Core and Arms & Shoulders <u>or</u> Chest & Back<br />Gym 15 minutes - weights<br />Swim 45 minutes - Technique<br />Bike 30 minutes - Technique on the Turbo<br />(Cycle to/from Work)</li>
<li><strong>Day Two</strong><br />Gym 45 minutes - TRX Core and Arms & Shoulders <u>or</u> Chest & Back<br />Gym 15 minutes - weights<br />Swim 45 minutes - Base Building/Distance Work<br />Run 30 minutes - Technique<br />(Cycle to/from work)</li>
<li><strong>Day Three</strong><br />Gym 45 minutes - TRX Core and Arms & Shoulders or Chest & Back<br />Gym 15 minutes - weights<br />Bike 1hour 30minutes - Distance Work</li>
<li><strong>Day Four</strong><div>
Run 10k - as fast as I can</div>
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Climbing - 2 hours<br />
- Week 1; Pyramid to establish 1 grade below fail grade <br />
- Week 2; 1 and 1's at 1 grade below fail grade x 4<br />
- Week 3; 1 and 1's at 1 grade below fail grade x 4<br />
- Week 4; 4x4 at 1 grade below fail grade x 2 </div>
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(Cycle to/from work)</div>
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<li><strong>Day Five</strong><br />Bike 50 minutes - Technique on the Turbo<br />(Cycle to/from work)</li>
<li><strong>Day Six</strong><br />Run 1 hour 30 min - Distance Work</li>
<li><strong>Day Seven</strong><br />Rest Day<br />(Cycle to/From Work)</li>
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That is roughly what I am doing over the next four weeks, or as close as possible to it. I am keeping a full plan and it is being updated daily <a href="http://iainmckenzie.blogspot.co.uk/search?updated-max=2014-01-03T14:40:00Z&max-results=1&start=1&by-date=false" target="_blank">here</a><br />
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As meetings or things pop up that affect the plan I will swap rest days, so sometimes I might have for example a 9 day on with one day off but then I will only have 4 days on till my next rest day so it seems to be evening out, although even on my rest days I am still cycling to work! where this occurs or if I have already done bike that day, I will cycle in a very easy gear and spin it out.Iain McKenziehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01883953044352848041noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2781170214217126600.post-64856278651054787942014-01-05T14:05:00.001+00:002014-01-06T15:13:59.950+00:00Open Water Swimming - Stoney Cove<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaplO8LOFfXTNwt7cfgS3bZH8QbccdrGZDFnxhuL_L0IDtDKAsZu96_V6TxRPIhKyP0P-A8dCgga312wChUXe1_rVc3sRXBzdJqE7JlZWfAon7pT6R4-tkLuPMZfnsRUj8d7iZYpl8siiz/s640/blogger-image-2082731425.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaplO8LOFfXTNwt7cfgS3bZH8QbccdrGZDFnxhuL_L0IDtDKAsZu96_V6TxRPIhKyP0P-A8dCgga312wChUXe1_rVc3sRXBzdJqE7JlZWfAon7pT6R4-tkLuPMZfnsRUj8d7iZYpl8siiz/s640/blogger-image-2082731425.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaplO8LOFfXTNwt7cfgS3bZH8QbccdrGZDFnxhuL_L0IDtDKAsZu96_V6TxRPIhKyP0P-A8dCgga312wChUXe1_rVc3sRXBzdJqE7JlZWfAon7pT6R4-tkLuPMZfnsRUj8d7iZYpl8siiz/s640/blogger-image-2082731425.jpg" /></a> </div>
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Having signed up to a majority of events that are open water based I thought I'd better research some open water venues I could swim at and get out there!</div>
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Since I am a relatively new swimmer, although I could dispatch a method of swimming which was very much a 'save yourself' technique if I fell in Deep Water Soloing, actual swimming any great distance with reasonable technique is new to me. </div>
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I have never gone out of my way to go swimming in open water so the thought of the first time doing it at the Outlaw Half (1.2 mile open water swim) terrified me.</div>
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Most open water venues close through the winter and I was super excited to find that the local (3 miles away) diving centre Stoney Cove had recently opened its doors to swimmers.</div>
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I recently got a Zone 3 wetsuit for all my events, but after speaking to a few people they advised that I'd need some booties and a hat, it's December and the water is 5 degrees!! </div>
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So I was even more impressed to get a very speedily delivered box of goodies form Zone 3 which included a hat , gloves & booties - sorted! </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh41jVxcPESvl9ApWf-a9lSnAPnnB7JrJQfk3OO6dVMt694ZvhsPgT8YRrBZSxUMX5g2XwMg4gZ88RDGA2-RVMIANHIWviXzXFlvdMIkwbMxNPV_upoUlkbtmQox_vIsMji_AIWW4DJGeh/s640/blogger-image-122450221.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh41jVxcPESvl9ApWf-a9lSnAPnnB7JrJQfk3OO6dVMt694ZvhsPgT8YRrBZSxUMX5g2XwMg4gZ88RDGA2-RVMIANHIWviXzXFlvdMIkwbMxNPV_upoUlkbtmQox_vIsMji_AIWW4DJGeh/s400/blogger-image-122450221.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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So armed with my new bits, late in December 2013, I went to Stoney Cove to try it out.</div>
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The conditions are simple;</div>
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swimmers must check in</div>
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swimmers must carry a whistle</div>
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swimmers must never swim alone or they need a spotter on the side</div>
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It cost £5 to swim and you pay this at the Dive Shop. </div>
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Paid up and kitted up I was good to go... </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUVQHRlUnwROFn-zg22AnsAYWHhWbc_lNVN2BECdl-zAeoEXR8KlkyD7egmetcQxai3O4CrAe8VptKLt4KEfkxfCRM668TvGIFEQK-XuhdKBTaYxXmcXouoQaJNCDhDS4DCkXssCBVLAcZ/s640/blogger-image-1423814149.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="399" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUVQHRlUnwROFn-zg22AnsAYWHhWbc_lNVN2BECdl-zAeoEXR8KlkyD7egmetcQxai3O4CrAe8VptKLt4KEfkxfCRM668TvGIFEQK-XuhdKBTaYxXmcXouoQaJNCDhDS4DCkXssCBVLAcZ/s400/blogger-image-1423814149.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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It was Baltic!! Once again I felt like I was doing more save yourself than actual swimming... </div>
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It was a good experience and I lasted about 30 minutes before I had to call it quits!! </div>
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You are not restricted in the cove it covers 13 acres and you can swim anywhere, they do have the wreck marker buoys and have a very rough guide to distances; </div>
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The facilities at Stoney Cove are excellent, as well as the Dive Shop there is a Café, Bar, changing rooms, toilets and most importantly showers!!<br />
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There is a rescue boat on constant standby and qualified first aiders on site. </div>
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Their open water swimming times are;</div>
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Monday - Friday <a href="tel:0830%20-%201600" x-apple-data-detectors-result="1" x-apple-data-detectors-type="telephone" x-apple-data-detectors="true">0830 - 1600</a></div>
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Saturday - Sunday <a href="tel:0700%20-%201200" x-apple-data-detectors-result="2" x-apple-data-detectors-type="telephone" x-apple-data-detectors="true">0700 - 1200</a></div>
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More information can be found here; <a href="http://www.stoneycove.com/open-water-swimming.html" target="_blank">Stoney Cove Web Site</a></div>
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Telephone; <a href="tel:01455%20273" x-apple-data-detectors-result="3" x-apple-data-detectors-type="telephone" x-apple-data-detectors="true"><strong>01455 273</strong></a><strong>089</strong></div>
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Loved it!! </div>
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Iain McKenziehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01883953044352848041noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2781170214217126600.post-91742355564961915422014-01-03T14:40:00.001+00:002014-01-03T14:40:53.927+00:00MyProtein Cereal Bars<div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_7HmuXK-BehwvvBmmNQ8xCO9685iZ1NDQCYdlUK8Z3ViJnOJyK52Im4UJSgTx9N6eeFfO29_tbi02rbywm2aaJ60xVQn9mIC9b7jU57UkJEuRIRXtdX4jiGHFDDdn1tKPT5tp-u-f-D9q/s640/blogger-image--631892587.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_7HmuXK-BehwvvBmmNQ8xCO9685iZ1NDQCYdlUK8Z3ViJnOJyK52Im4UJSgTx9N6eeFfO29_tbi02rbywm2aaJ60xVQn9mIC9b7jU57UkJEuRIRXtdX4jiGHFDDdn1tKPT5tp-u-f-D9q/s640/blogger-image--631892587.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div>Amend as you see fit, you will need a 'big' bowl! </div><div><br></div><div>330g unsalted butter</div><div>260ml golden syrup</div><div>260g soft light brown sugar</div><div>250g rolled oats</div><div>200g desiccated coconut </div><div>125g dried apricots, chop these finely</div><div>60g dried dates, chop these finely</div><div>125g cornflakes</div><div>125g sunflower seeds </div><div>60g dried cranberries</div><div>125g shelled chopped/broken up walnuts</div><div>125g raisins </div><div>60g chopped Brazil nuts</div><div>60g chopped cashew nuts</div><div>300g Whey Protein (impact whey from myprotein is the best & has the highest concentration of protein, it also comes in flavours)</div><div><br></div><div>Butter, syrup & sugar in a pan (med heat) & mix till melted & smooth.</div><div><br></div><div>Mix all the rest together in a large bowl with a wooden spoon until evenly dispersed and well mixed.</div><div><br></div><div>Add the sugar mix to the everything mix and mix till there is nothing dry left and all is evenly dispersed... </div><div><br></div><div>Press all the mixture into a baking tray (33x22x5cm) & use a spoon to press & flatten.</div><div><br></div><div>Cover with a sheet of grease proof paper then a book /smaller tray and put weights/jars/beer on top to weigh it down and properly flatten it even more, once cooled put all in the fridge overnight.</div><div><br></div><div>Cut into whatever size you want.</div>Iain McKenziehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01883953044352848041noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2781170214217126600.post-31464858208036839752013-12-29T13:33:00.001+00:002014-01-27T12:52:53.809+00:00The Training Game - Diary (Dec-Jan)<div>
<strong><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Last Update; <i>27th</i> <em>January 2014</em></span></strong><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: small;">Leicester Sprint Tri 2013</span></td></tr>
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<u><b><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Purpose</span></b></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">The point to this post will be to keep a record of what I am doing in my bid to get fit enough to both do reasonably well in next years triathlons and maintain a decent base level of climbing fitness. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">It will be getting updated straight from my phone so sorry for any typos or bad punctuation.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">The events I am doing are;</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">05/05/14 -<b> Leicester Sprint Tri</b> (400 meter Swim, 20 Kilometer Bike, 5 Kilometer Run)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">01/06/14 - <b>Outlaw Half Triathlon</b> (1.2 mile Swim, 56 Mile Bike, 13.1 Mile Run)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">21/06/14 - <b>Dambusters Triathlon</b> (1.5 Kilometer Swim, 42 Kilometer Bike, 10 Kilometer Run)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">06/07/14 - <b>National Sprint Championships</b> (750 Meter Swim, 20 Kilometers Bike, 5 Kilometer Run)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">14/09/14 - <b>IronMan Wales</b> (2.4 Mile Swim, 112 Mile Bike, 26.2 Mile Run) </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Quite scary really when you see it written down!! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Anyway, here is my diary and what I get up to! </span></div>
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<u><b><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">29th December 2013</span></b></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Training for next years events officially started today although I have spent the last 5 weeks getting for enough to start training, getting my body used to both getting up early and learning how to use TRX kit properly as this will make up the majority of my training for climbing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><i>0545</i> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Up and out of bed, pint of high5 Zero and a homemade MyProtein Cereal Bar (if anyone wants to know how to make them let me know, they are scrummy!)</span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">0600 </span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Hit the home gym, jogging on the spot & dynamic warmup for 15 min followed by 45min of TRX </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><i>0705</i> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">3 x 50 15kg dumbbell curls </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">3 x 50 sit-ups on the incline bench</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">3 x 10 full drop slow pull-ups, locking at the top and dropping all the way down holding for 3 seconds top and bottom</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">3 x 10 full set tricep dips, holding for 3 seconds at both the top and the bottom</span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">0735</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Bike work on the turbo trainer 10 minutes easy warm up, 30 minutes easy spinning focusing on making smooth circular pedal strokes at 90 rotations per minute (rpm), 5 minutes of cool down</span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">0820</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Cycle to swimming pool then 10 minutes easy warm up, 45 minutes doing sets of 50 meters arm swim drills, resting 15-20 seconds between each, 5 minutes of cool down</span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">0935</span></i></div>
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<b><u><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">30th December 2013</span></u></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Having realised I am supposed to be training on New Year's Day and today should be a rest day I have brought my sessions forward and will be taking NYD off!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Due to time I have split it into a morning and an afternoon session.</span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">0545</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Up and out of bed, pint of high5 Zero and a homemade MyProtein cereal bar.</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Hit the home gym, jogging on the spot & dynamic warmup for 15 min followed by 20min of TRX, today is my arms and shoulders day, this is the workout;</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><i>0640</i></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">3 x 50 sit-ups on the incline bench</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">3 x 10 full drop slow pull-ups, locking at the top and dropping all the way down holding for 3 seconds top and bottom</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">3 x 10 full set tricep dips, holding for 3 seconds at both the top and the bottom</span></div>
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<i style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">0710</span></i></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Cycle to swimming pool then 10 minutes easy warm up, 45 minutes constant lengths with little or no rest between lengths, managed 68 lengths which is roughly 1700 meters, 5 minutes of cool down</span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">1600</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">A 30 minute get out there run round the village covering 6.5k (done in a time if 27.32) with my neighbour, didn't feel too bad considering it was my first run out in 6 weeks! </span></div>
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<b><u><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">31st December 2013 (Hogmanay)</span></u></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">I posted this on Facebook & Twitter;</span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">@Iain_McKenzie: Eat. Sleep. Train. Repeat.. Not today baby!! 5:30 am & up for 3hrs graft in gym & pool then it's play time till Thurs! Happy #Hogmanay all!!</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Yes... Last day of 2013 and tomorrow all the events I am training for are "this year"!!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">I started the day a bit earlier today as I need to be done by 8:30am.</span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">0515</span></i></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Up and out of bed, pint of high5 Zero and a homemade MyProtein cereal bar, I need to make some more of these in the new year! </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><i>0530</i></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Hit the home gym, jogging on the spot & dynamic warmup for 15 min followed by 40min of TRX, today I did the core session and then the chest & back sessions, they are;</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Both sessions went really well and I am getting better at the <i>pike</i>! </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><i>0620</i></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">3 x 20 15kg dumbbell lockoffs </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">3 x 50 sit-ups on the incline bench</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">3 x 10 full drop slow pull-ups, locking at the top and dropping all the way down holding for 3 seconds top and bottom</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">3 x 10 full set tricep dips, holding for 3 seconds at both the top and the bottom</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCCfcgnTraPUPBRS3S44Qr0m6JfcZlY3XW0_0Ov1AuAAIGV8DG3ltaiq4VIi2VcGfptSNz8QEmo4mmYdgjSAk1BIcbBHD8v0vKsGEIUTJMN4ReTU8FQ5fasd_R9zrPqYC0HuTpvxI9XL9W/s640/blogger-image--837905511.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCCfcgnTraPUPBRS3S44Qr0m6JfcZlY3XW0_0Ov1AuAAIGV8DG3ltaiq4VIi2VcGfptSNz8QEmo4mmYdgjSAk1BIcbBHD8v0vKsGEIUTJMN4ReTU8FQ5fasd_R9zrPqYC0HuTpvxI9XL9W/s1600/blogger-image--837905511.jpg" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: small;">TL; Slow Pull Up Locking off. BL; Slow Tricep Dip. TR; TRX Work. BL; Locking off the Dumbells </span></td></tr>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">I found the this set hard after the TRX today but not as hard as it was 4 weeks ago when I was putting this session together! </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><i>0655</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Cycle to swimming pool then 45 min of b</span>ase building - workouts done at an easy to easy-moderate intensity with periods of recovery or rest as needed, so I broke this up into sets of 4 lengths with 1 minute between sets.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">4 x pool buoy between legs with hands in the paddles.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">4 x pool buoy between legs no paddles</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">4 x fast swim.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">4 x legs only, holding float with head out of water.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">4 x legs only, holding float with head under water breathing to alternate sides.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">4 x fast swim.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">2 x cool down swim</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Repeat</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">So 4 x means I did 4 lengths of 25 meters and when I say fast I mean as fast as I can which to be honest is not very fast or graceful!! I did this twice.</span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Finish</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">That's it for 2013! </span></div>
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<b><u><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">1st January 2014</span></u></b></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Following a late night which involved staying up till gone 5:45am and far too much alcohol, today was taken as a rest day! Happy New Year All!</span><br />
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<u><b><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">2nd January 2014</span></b></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">So all the training I am now doing is for events that are happening this, yes... this year!! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">I have decided to climb on a weekly basis with Sophie and today was going to be a bench marking session. The boys at work have been busy resetting the Tower Area at work so the plan was to get in there and do a pyramid session till I fall off and use that as a starting point for all my climbing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><i>0900</i> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Today is a bike day so I got the bike of the Turbo Trainer and blasted into work on one of my long circuits, I will at somepoint gmap them and link to them, this consisted of a 31.8 mile cycle in covering quite a few hills and country road, it is the first time I have been out on the bike for quite a while so it was a bit of an eyeopener, magaged the distance in 1:18.32.</span><br />
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<em><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">1030</span></em><br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Routes in the wall with Sophie, this was just a climb till you drop benchmark session. I have not climbed indoors for ages, by ages I mean a good 2 months so it was always going to be interesting.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Rich, Orrin and James have totally reset the Tower (15 meter lead wall) so it was a good get on stuff I had not seen anyone else on.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">I managed to do; 4+, 5+, 6a+, 6b+ and then I fell off the last move of a 6c. As I said, I have not climbed in a while, the fingers didn't feel too bad with minimal swelling after. So from this point I will up the starting grade and work on some conditioning, stamina and endurance.</span><br />
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<em><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">1130</span></em><br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">todays aim was to spend 45 minutes running at a reasonable pace, I know I had a decent 10k in me although after the amount of alcohol consumed on Hogmanay I was doubtful. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">With that in mind I did a 10 minute dynamic warm up followed by a slow loosening up jog and was very pleased to do a 41:28 10k. </span><br />
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<b><u><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">
3rd January 2014</span></u></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">The main aim of today is a distance run but because I am in full on training mode and trying to maintain my climbing fitness I decided to throw in a TRX & weights session. </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><i>0545</i> </span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Up and out of bed, pint of high5 Zero and a homemade MyProtein Cereal Bar, the morning routines are becoming easy(ish)</span></div>
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<i style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">0600 </span></i></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Hit the home gym, jogging on the spot and dynamic warmup for 15 min followed by 45min of TRX, today I did the Core session followed by Arms & Shoulders.</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxmETnTPcUeZP5ZlvzIzDbJbyqeb3gYyRyFWGN6i42q-zYENw-XKBVyVLPWE1VG63e3CLCEaMQO_chnnV6Et85nV_7tqO_T81ZgnowPA7zatq0C3y70NV8DipixZ6SQ2S9gHt8Lqmg9sT_/s640/blogger-image--1160953572.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxmETnTPcUeZP5ZlvzIzDbJbyqeb3gYyRyFWGN6i42q-zYENw-XKBVyVLPWE1VG63e3CLCEaMQO_chnnV6Et85nV_7tqO_T81ZgnowPA7zatq0C3y70NV8DipixZ6SQ2S9gHt8Lqmg9sT_/s400/blogger-image--1160953572.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYHZFtbRkuiBopAqoBcriLPly61vvPHTqntNFvaxquvP7SAzEdXQ4e6gcAf8t2jWOFYoA7fk7dO8K7chwxQb0xeRHKMxWyDGY3DVe6F_Htny4gm7o407zXbipQQuqbf_xW_WP4qqredMTH/s640/blogger-image--1033635328.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYHZFtbRkuiBopAqoBcriLPly61vvPHTqntNFvaxquvP7SAzEdXQ4e6gcAf8t2jWOFYoA7fk7dO8K7chwxQb0xeRHKMxWyDGY3DVe6F_Htny4gm7o407zXbipQQuqbf_xW_WP4qqredMTH/s400/blogger-image--1033635328.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Both sessions went well although I was getting a tad pumped by the time I got to the Clutch Curl and Triceps Press.</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Following in from the last post where I mentioned my Pike was there I had a few questions about it so here is a pike; </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguZNIaW4TdjMCOXmkYg6VcNAynb0PYO6oEYsty-8XDmlZEKKwCDN_FJITfcdZzcCwTjfRgaThmGtSQ6EWAelm51SjpuSl2QxA_XmYqu1px1iT86yDLXk0djiB3qoSu_q-jqXmfFQYSo2fN/s640/blogger-image--41467541.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguZNIaW4TdjMCOXmkYg6VcNAynb0PYO6oEYsty-8XDmlZEKKwCDN_FJITfcdZzcCwTjfRgaThmGtSQ6EWAelm51SjpuSl2QxA_XmYqu1px1iT86yDLXk0djiB3qoSu_q-jqXmfFQYSo2fN/s640/blogger-image--41467541.jpg" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; font-size: small;">The TRX Pike set</span></td></tr>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">I still need to get over more but it is 100% better than it was!! </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><i>0705</i> </span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">3 x 50 15kg dumbbell curls </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">3 x 50 sit-ups on the incline bench</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">3 x 10 full drop slow pull-ups, locking at the top and dropping all the way down holding for 3 seconds top and bottom</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">3 x 10 full set tricep dips, holding for 3 seconds at both the top and the bottom</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><i>0900</i></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Run to work, today's plan is all about distance work, I have a number of different rout options to work so I opted for a very steady 13.24 mile run in at a moderate and comfortable pace, this was done in a time of 1:32.15 which in all honesty I am very pleased with.</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><i>1035</i></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Finish</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><b><u>4th January 2014</u></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Today was going to be simple, a steady 50 minute ride at medium intensity, all set up and sorted I planned to get out at 7am until I saw the weather! It was mingin' !!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Now contrary to rule 9 (as pointed out by <strong>Matt Barker</strong>) which states;</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">I cycle or run to work every day come rain, snow, wind... Whatever the weather, but on my days off work I would rather I had a quality training session so I opted for the Turbo Trainer, luckily my neighbour was up for doing some TRX work so that was my company sorted while I beasted myself on the Turbo. The result was;</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">50 minutes</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Average speed of 34-37 Kph</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Average RPM of 90-100</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Average Heart Rate of 189bpm</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">All in all a very good hard session and big thanks to <strong>Andy Yip</strong> for the company!</span></div>
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<b><u><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">5th January 2014</span></u></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Today is an easy bike session that consists of lots of spinning.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">I combined this with needing to go into work so I cycled the most direct route in and out, 9.6 miles.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">In to work </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Low gear ave 110rpm</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Ave speed 28 - 33 Kph</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Time 24:34</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Out of work</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Low gear Ave 105rpm</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Ave speed 27-31 Kph</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Time 26:45</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Nice easy session.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Loving this and it is so true at the moment;</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYoSjmNCZaDiAgzDqdvIoHHFli8y6rK9pMq0dGGrRDY4AKQWqNNSqnCDUdFpsLq_ZtSmpTxtrdora66KPzXMz9LdevbyPSk169-D8uNAKHBrU-_tV6rLcYbVAwMzVoL5HEbH90Y_zHt77T/s640/blogger-image--331069783.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYoSjmNCZaDiAgzDqdvIoHHFli8y6rK9pMq0dGGrRDY4AKQWqNNSqnCDUdFpsLq_ZtSmpTxtrdora66KPzXMz9LdevbyPSk169-D8uNAKHBrU-_tV6rLcYbVAwMzVoL5HEbH90Y_zHt77T/s640/blogger-image--331069783.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><strong><u>6th January 2014</u></strong></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Today is supposed to be a rest day, as above states, this is something I find hard although part of it is simple, I still have to commute to work on my bike and I have a meeting on Thursday which means I won't get to train on a training day.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><em>0645</em></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Up and out of bed, eat a banana whilst cycling to swimming pool. </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Easy pool session based on technique - 10 minutes easy warm up, 30 minutes doing sets of swim drills, resting 15-20 seconds between each, 5 minutes of cool down</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">4 x 50m pool buoy between legs with hands in the paddles.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">4 x 50m pool buoy between legs no paddles</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">4 x 50m fast swim.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">2 x 50m legs only, holding float with head out of water.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">2 x 50m legs only, holding float with head under water breathing to alternate sides.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">4 x 50m fast swim.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">4 x 50m cool down swim</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><em>0930</em></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Cycle to work over 45 minutes, concentrating on t<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">echnique - 10 minutes easy warm up, 30 minutes easy spinning focusing on making smooth circular pedal strokes at 90 rotations per minute (rpm), 5 minutes of cool down</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><i>2000</i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Cycle home, the weather was mingin' it was wet and wild!! I cycled the direct 9.6 miles, into a head wind, took 34 minutes.</span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">I saw this on Facebook, it's an art installation in Leicestershire, sums up my feeling on Ironman Wales!! </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEtTnEUSxXCiJJOFDGntnV3u_zty3j9htwaDyY3FIRmObBN0eO5dUo73g5RAbHIJXclc3iFsP_Yfj5jGyNabdfI6KfeeobRv8Y49YC26RCk-4JmCDt1fbpKCrYllwFe_zVFt9eFG_hC04S/s640/blogger-image--1806872648.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEtTnEUSxXCiJJOFDGntnV3u_zty3j9htwaDyY3FIRmObBN0eO5dUo73g5RAbHIJXclc3iFsP_Yfj5jGyNabdfI6KfeeobRv8Y49YC26RCk-4JmCDt1fbpKCrYllwFe_zVFt9eFG_hC04S/s640/blogger-image--1806872648.jpg" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><u>7th January 2014</u></b></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Today, apart from the cycle to and from work was mostly about tests. </span></div>
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<i style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">0600</span></i></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Up and out of bed, pint of high5 Zero and a homemade MyProtein cereal bar.</span></div>
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<i style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">0615</span></i></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Hit the home gym, jogging on the spot & dynamic warmup for 15 min followed by 20min of TRX, today I just did the core session.</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><i>0655</i></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Cycle to the pool then a 400 meter time trial, 16 lengths as fast as I can, this is the same distance as pool based Sprint Triathlons. </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">After a 10 minute warm up I took stock and went for it, I thought I would be faster but I managed the distance in 8 minutes 23 seconds which in about where I was when I finished the Sprint Triathlons last year.</span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">1020</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Cycle to work direct and fast, 9.2 miles, 22.34, the roads were a lot quieter than I expected! </span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">1345</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Second test of the day, a 12 minute run at max intensity and see how far I could do. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">I set </span>off at a fairly steady pace, possibly a little too fast, of 16.5 kph I managed to maintain it, dropped it slightly but then ramped it back up. I managed to do a total distance of 3.49 kilometers with the treadmill set at a 1 degree incline in the 12 minute time frame. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Since it was the first time I have done this we will use it as a benchmark, it has to be faster and longer going forward! </span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">1515</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Third test of the day, Bench Pressing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I have never done a bench press before, I have always concentrated on the pull muscles and just done pressups, dips and the TRX, the latter only recently, to work the push muscles. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I am lucky enough to have a gym at work so after consultation with Rana, one of the member of Gym staff, he said he would take me through it and spot me.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">After demonstrating we started with just the Olympic Bar, this alone weighs in at 20kg and was an ideal tool for getting the technique nailed. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">My idea of nailed technique is something that resembles a Bench Press or there abouts! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">With the aim if this to do 3 clean reps at max weight ability we needed to add some weight! So with that in mind Rana added 20kg to each side, total weight now 60kg.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">With weight added it was a different kettle of fish, firstly you now have to breathe and secondly you have to use your legs to stabilise yourself, on the first attempt I did neither!! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Breathe out as you lower, in as you push up. Legs and feet stable and pressing on the ground and the bar should come down to and be in line with your nipples. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Second go at this weight was a lot more controlled, I managed 5 clean reps comfortably. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Rana added another 5kg to each side, total bar weight 70kg, 2kg heavier than my body weight.... Dispatched with relative ease. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">With another 5kg on each side being added, total weight 80kg and the incentive from Rana that "you'll manage about 2" I went for it... It was not pretty, relatively controlled with a bit of stability being added with Rana's careful spotting, but I managed (just) 3 clean reps at 80kg. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">At that I called it a day! </span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">1630</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Again the weather had gone pants, the cycle home was direct, wet and windy... Oh... and busy, 28 minutes.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><u>8th January 2014 </u></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><u><br /></u></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><i>"life's only limitations are the ones we create"</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Today is the last day before a rest day, with meetings planned tomorrow there is no chance I will get an opportunity to train so I have done some jigging and it's now the rest day! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Today's plan consisted of some TRX work, climbing and a long run.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><i>0545</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Up and out of bed, the usual routine of High5 and a MyProtein cereal bar to get me going! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><i>0600</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">With today also being a climbing day I didn't want to do too much on the TRX so I spent about 45 minutes experimenting with different exercises to try to make them ice/climbing specific, I think I could possibly string together about 15-20 different exercises, watch this space!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><i>0745</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Long run to work, I needed to run for 1:30.00 so I opted to take one of my longer country/track runs to work, the weather was lovely, no rain and not too strong a wing so I covered the 13.24 route in a decent time if 1:28.48. Seeing progress in the run which I am really pleased with. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><i>0950</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">And for the fun bit, this weeks climbing session! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">We were a bit pushed for time so we selected 4 routes each and did some 1&1's to start building a bit of stamina with the last route climbing to failure. When I did my pyramid last week I failed on the final move on a 6c so the plan today was to go no higher than 6b+.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">1and1's are where you climb a route, pull the rope and go straight back up it. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Today I managed a 5+, 6a+, 6b & the 6b + then on the third go up to failure I got just over half way, so 8.5 routes done in 45 minutes between 2 of us was good going, including a touch of the DOMS after yesterday's Bench Press and the run into work! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Rest day tomorrow :) </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><u>9th January 2014</u></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Meetings and planned rest day has ensured today is a day of "<i>rest</i>" </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><u>10th January 2014</u></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Today is a bit of a mix it up day.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><i>0515</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Up and out of bed, High5 Gel Shot, pint of water and out for a run.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><i>0530</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">My run was planned for later but this was the first morning that it was still, cold and calm so it was too good an opportunity to miss.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">On the cards was a good steady run for 45 minutes, I warmed up well and did a steady 10k finishing with some sprints, the first I have done since tearing my calf!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><i>0630</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">TRX and weights session. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The TRX session was the 'Total Body Workout' the first time I did this I really struggled, today I added an additional 5 reps to every set! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br />My weights session consisted of;</span><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">3 x 50 biceps curls </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Between each set I did </span><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">3 x 50 sit ups on the incline bench</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">After this double set I did 3 x 18 sets of tricep dips.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">All in all today was a good day!! </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGL6DP2FxfcZrU4c9rcCLRDlMkMaj-0IRBU5MjtQ6CKSCYD16G5H9_u6BGMHsgYoMWvfnfvK7lbbeyBpSYEeivzOjwAuNnvNezzDWtVlLVWUYs1iBUa53vNqlmOOv2bUM1iTUlAhm7S2rv/s640/blogger-image--858639092.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="317" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGL6DP2FxfcZrU4c9rcCLRDlMkMaj-0IRBU5MjtQ6CKSCYD16G5H9_u6BGMHsgYoMWvfnfvK7lbbeyBpSYEeivzOjwAuNnvNezzDWtVlLVWUYs1iBUa53vNqlmOOv2bUM1iTUlAhm7S2rv/s400/blogger-image--858639092.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: small;">This is my new bike from Frog Island Triathlon</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><u>11th January 2014</u></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Today's plan is just a run, and the added bonus was getting to stay in bed longer!!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><i>0800</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Today is a distance running day, to be done at a easy and comfortable pace.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I paced myself at about 12kph and managed to do a 15.06 mile run in 2:05.34</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">If felt pretty easy, no niggles or pains, this is also the furthest I have run in about 8 months so all in all pretty pleased, again, a bar has now been set and I have something to compare against.</span><br />
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<strong><u><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">12th January 2014</span></u></strong></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Today is a active recovery bike day. After yesterdays long run my legs were feeling a bit heavy so I was glad of the run out on the bike.<br />
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<em>0800</em><br />
The roads were very frosty, but it was sunny and calm so I headed out towards Desford and made a decision that at the fork I would either do the </span><a href="http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=6178429" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Desford Sprint Triathlon loop</span></a><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"> making my total distance 35.56 Kilometres or I would do the Leicester Forest Loop which would keep it to just 20.02 Kilometres.<br />
I opted for the </span><a href="http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=6178429" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Desford Triathlon loop</span></a><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">. The route is fairly hilly with some decent descents and some sharp hills and the legs didn't feel too bad.<br />
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Average speed of 33-35 Kph</span><br />
<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Average RPM of 90-100</span><br />
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Total Time 1:18.45</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><strong><u>13th January 2014</u></strong><br />
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Technically today is a rest day, so with no meetings planned this week the only exercise I will be doing is the direct route to and from work!<br />
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I cycled the most direct route in and out, 9.6 miles.<br />
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">In to work </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Low gear ave 110rpm</span></div>
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</span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Ave speed 28 - 33 Kph</span></span><br />
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Time 27:34</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><u>14th January 2014</u></b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">At the start of this post I said I was just trying to keep my general fitness up for climbing aswell, things changed slightly last night. I got a message from Mark Bullock asking if I fancied a trip to Riglos! BOOM! Hell Yesssssss!! </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMaeyBqLeH8gBdIjT8LaPPF5gG5yhi03lLeTCMsvussV566Mg-1EWaLG3GE-8lYF3ER7MNNumX03sGAMHDAPQTOBPSy_M-1b0MHyAxOhU9JsdetQd2NaEKIXKAuTYiNxPMP5y61KrsD_8i/s1600/Riglos.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMaeyBqLeH8gBdIjT8LaPPF5gG5yhi03lLeTCMsvussV566Mg-1EWaLG3GE-8lYF3ER7MNNumX03sGAMHDAPQTOBPSy_M-1b0MHyAxOhU9JsdetQd2NaEKIXKAuTYiNxPMP5y61KrsD_8i/s1600/Riglos.jpg" height="118" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: white;">Los Mallos De </span><span class="hilite" style="background-color: yellow;">Riglos</span></span><br />
<span class="small" style="background-color: white; font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: small;">UKC Articles, Apr 2012</span><br />
<span class="small" style="background-color: white; font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: small;">© Paul Bennett</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The plan is to head out to do;</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><strong style="background-color: white;"><br />La Fiesta de los Biceps 7a</strong><span style="background-color: white;">, La Visera, 270m (6c+, 6b/A0, 15 QDs) – Surprisingly the crux is low down and technical (a groove), above this things get steep, pumpy and outrageously fun!</span></span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"></span> </div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Full article on UK Climbing <a href="http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4614" target="_blank">here</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Now all my TRX training and sessions at the wall with Sophie have a purpose!! </span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">So with this psych and purpose to my climbing training todays session went a little something like this; </span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">0530</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Up and out of bed, pint of high5 Zero and some muesli.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><i><br />0600</i></span><i style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"> </i></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Hit the home gym, jogging on the spot & dynamic warmup for 15 min followed by 20min of TRX, I have upped all the reps in the sets to 15 reps each, this is the workout;</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimuc5Y09ywatMgs6Sh7JlKOG8gEqneKp8lT_2art4s2gyML0d1Jg3h1_gG-qJJMl52qip5wtTx89OZjAcpgX9LEy-4GYn9evUuioCJ_IaWO2iUNQtfZVoKMcMMTsxiNkDmGjnBSJHwWW43/s640/blogger-image-412077360.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimuc5Y09ywatMgs6Sh7JlKOG8gEqneKp8lT_2art4s2gyML0d1Jg3h1_gG-qJJMl52qip5wtTx89OZjAcpgX9LEy-4GYn9evUuioCJ_IaWO2iUNQtfZVoKMcMMTsxiNkDmGjnBSJHwWW43/s400/blogger-image-412077360.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><i>0640</i></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">3 x 50 15kg dumbbell curls </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">3 x 50 sit-ups on the incline bench</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">3 x 10 full drop slow pull-ups, locking at the top and dropping all the way down holding for 3 seconds top and bottom</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">3 x 10 full set tricep dips, holding for 3 seconds at both the top and the bottom<br /><br /><i>0900</i><br />10k steady run done in 42 minutes.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><b><u>15th January 2014</u></b><br /><br />Today was a bike day working on distance, luckily I can combine this with going to work.</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">I opted for one of the longer loops, 42 miles, done at a good steady speed taking in some of the hills around Bradgate Park and Charnwood, 1:58.34. all in all it felt good. </span><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span><br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">1345<br />Bench Press time with Rana, he is aiming to up my weight I am pushing, last week was my first session and I managed 80kg. After a good warm up I easily did 3 x 80Kg which surprised me. He stacked another 1.25kg on each side taking the total weight to 82.5kgs. <br /><br />The first two reps were steady, the final one however was a battle... much in the same way 80kg was last week!! progress :-)<br /><br />Fast steady 13.2 mile cycle home after work.<br /><br /><b><u>16th January </u></b> </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Today is climbing day... so </span><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">I cycled the most direct route in and out, 9.6 miles.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">In to work </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Low gear ave 110rpm</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Ave speed 28 - 33 Kph</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Time 23:44</span></div>
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">With the climbing I have a steady plan that I am following, this week is still working on 1 and 1's (climb up the route, straight down and back up the same route with as little rest as possible) but raising the starting grade, last week I started with 5+ so toady it is 6a.</span>Started with a 6a then 6a+ followed by a 6b, the final route today was the 6c that I fell of the last move on, so off I went, feeling a tad pumped but not too bad, surprisingly I found myself topping it and had enough in the tank to fall off two moves from where I fell off last time... so big progress made! although I do have one thing to keep me going.... REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEGLOS!!!! (Riglos!) below is the route we are planning to do... Steeeep!</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2RQO1HNf49d1N6qY2kN_TR0prEogyMrji8eZ_uavdcjY_bkR-mRelhXR7JNGb_mgv7wzRxWDGXMP12yGs-VTqFalSaQsCB2zWId_eyQ9HFoimqXlnAdUGE3UVjqexbCzMbNFNY1YBSDXj/s1600/Bicepts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2RQO1HNf49d1N6qY2kN_TR0prEogyMrji8eZ_uavdcjY_bkR-mRelhXR7JNGb_mgv7wzRxWDGXMP12yGs-VTqFalSaQsCB2zWId_eyQ9HFoimqXlnAdUGE3UVjqexbCzMbNFNY1YBSDXj/s1600/Bicepts.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: white; text-align: left;">'Fiesta de los biceps' (F7a), </span><span class="hilite" style="background-color: yellow; text-align: left;">Riglos </span><span class="small" style="background-color: white; text-align: left;">© ali k, Oct 2010</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Cycle Home </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Low gear ave 110rpm</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Ave speed 28 - 33 Kph</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Time 26:15</span></div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><b><u><br />17th January 2014</u></b><br /><br />Busy day today so lots to pack in it means an easly start!</span><br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><br /><i>0500</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Up and out of bed, High5 energy shot and a banana.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><i>0530</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">5k fast run. It was a clear morning, dark but the sky was clear and it was dry. I ran my usual 5 k circuit since I am not in work today I wasn't going to get on the treadmill. 5k done in 18.54.</span><br />
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<i style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">0600 </span></i></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Hit the home gym, jogging on the spot and dynamic warmup for 15 min followed by 30min of TRX, today I did the Core session followed by Arms & Shoulders.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">following the TRX session I used the gym;</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">3 x 30 Dumbell Curls</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">3 x 30 Situps on the incline</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">5 x 10 Chest Press with the weight 60Kgs</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">3 x 15 slow Pullups.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_gmQCRvM5DVvOYvhHqdCwrH0Hs5pAR-DwmkuVvnqkJpM8HAWFDn0FGcOl1FYaOk15zOPoAG38nPWueRzV_62PQllHb_056vp-c4iZMd1_c7YQ12y7_JEFGQF0LnhtmJiQ65-AL2BV1pj1/s1600/Home+Gym.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_gmQCRvM5DVvOYvhHqdCwrH0Hs5pAR-DwmkuVvnqkJpM8HAWFDn0FGcOl1FYaOk15zOPoAG38nPWueRzV_62PQllHb_056vp-c4iZMd1_c7YQ12y7_JEFGQF0LnhtmJiQ65-AL2BV1pj1/s1600/Home+Gym.jpg" height="298" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: small;">My Home Gym - room of pain!!</span></td></tr>
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<i style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">0715</i><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Cycle to swimming pool then 45 min of b</span>ase building - workouts done at an easy to easy-moderate intensity with periods of recovery or rest as needed, this was broken up into sets of 4 lengths with 1 minute between sets.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">4 x pool buoy between legs with hands in the paddles.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">4 x pool buoy between legs no paddles</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">4 x fast swim.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">4 x legs only, holding float with head out of water.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">4 x legs only, holding float with head under water breathing to alternate sides.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">4 x fast swim.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">2 x cool down swim</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Repeat</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">(4 x means I did 4 lengths of 25 meters)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">A bit of inspiration; Rise & Shine</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><br /><strong><u>18th January 2014</u></strong><br />
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<em>My life is currently summed up in 5 words; Eat... Sleep... Train... Work... Repeat</em><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Today is a long run day, I also need to get to work! I will tie the two together!</span><br />
<br /><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><em>0500</em></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">up and out of bed, High5 Drink, Kiwi Fruit and Banana.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><em>0530</em></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">30 minutes on the turbo trainer, easy spinning focusing on making smooth circular pedal strokes at 90 rotations per minute (rpm), 5 minutes of cool down.<em><br /></em></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><em>0615</em></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">TRX and weights session. </span></span></div>
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</span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">The TRX session was the 'Total Body Workout' </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">My weights session consisted of; 3 x 30 biceps curls </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Between each set I did 3 x 30 sit ups on the incline bench</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">After this double set I did 3 x 20 sets of tricep dips.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><em>0730</em></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Run 13.2 miles to work, felt a tad heavy after the turbo session but I guess that's good training for the events I am doing!! Done in a time of 1:39.12</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><strong><u>19th January 2014</u></strong></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Recovery ride day, and working so it was the long senic 30.4 mile route through <span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Charnwood Forest passing Bradgate Park, 1:28.07.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><strong><u><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">20th January 2014</span></u></strong></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Today should be my rest day, but I am working in London tomorrow so I have swapped days. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS;">My legs and bum are feeling it after a few days of pretty hard leg work but I need to stick to the plan. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS;"><em>0600</em>Up and out of bed, High5 drink and banana. <br /><br /><em>0620</em>It was s super cold and frosty morning, the moon was massive and there were no clouds in the sky, totally serein. <br /><br />After quite a long warm up I went out for a 10k run, I opted to keep it simple and do the 5k loop twice, that way if my legs were shot after the last few days of training I could bail. The first loop was good and went well, with about 3k to go my legs were feeling tight but not too bad. Finished the 10k in a time of 42.33<br /><br /><em>0715</em></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS;">Blast in the gym; <br />5 x 10 sets of Chest Press @ 70kgs<br />5 x 30 Dumbell Curls<br />5 x 30 Situps on the incline bench<br /><br /><em>0920</em><br />My legs were feeling it!! so instead of blasting into work, the weather is stunning, the muddy paths are frozen solid, I decided to cycle the 16.7 mile cross country route to work, there is no time involved or cycling hard, it was just a pleasant cycle I in on a nice sunny day in January! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS;">Followed by an easy ride home after work.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><strong><u>21st January 2014</u></strong></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><br />Rest day<br /><br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><strong><u>22nd January 2014</u></strong></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">plan is just a run although I feel like I have a cold coming! not good!</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><i>0800</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Today is a distance running day, to be done at a easy and comfortable pace.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I paced myself at about average 12kph and managed to run into work on the 13.2 mile run in 1:36.34</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">If felt pretty steady although breathing was a problem... </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><strong><u>23rd January 2014</u></strong></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I have a cold!! no gym or swim this morning, I feel like I have neglected the swimming of late, but today is climbing day and it is my 4x4 set!</span><br />
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After a steady cycle in on the mountain bike I hit the wall with Sophie.<br />
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">A 4x4 set is basically doing 4 routes in succession with little or as far as possible, no rest between them and repeating that 4 times.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">It is an endurance set so it needs to be as close to my onsight grade as possible, on the first week pyramid I failed on the 6c so today I was aiming for 4x4's on 6a+ upto 6b+</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Started with a 6a+ set of 4 to get warmed up on a steep overhanging panel. The second set was a mixed set in succession on the scoop of 6a+/6b+/6a+/6b+. The third set was another mixed set back on the steep overhanging panel of 6a/6b+/6a/6b+ and the final set was just a straight set of 6a+ that I warmed up on. </span></div>
</span> Easy steady cycle home!</div>
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<br /><strong><u>24th January - 26th January 2014</u></strong></div>
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Forced rest and recovery... I am ill!! </div>
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<strong><u>27th January 2014</u></strong></div>
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I have a manic week coming up and I have had 3 days rest almost feeling 100% again. I had this great plan of getting up and 4:45am starting with a run, gym, swim then cycle to work.... </div>
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The alarm went off and I thought I hit snooze... then I woke up at 7:10am ... #trainingfail</div>
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So I opted to hit the pool after the rush and did a 45 minute base building set, I feel like I have let the swimming slide a bit and was very surprised to have a excellent session!! </div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"><em>0900</em></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Base building - workouts done at an easy to easy-moderate intensity with periods of recovery or rest as needed, so I broke this up into sets of 4 lengths with 1 minute between sets.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">4 x pool buoy between legs with hands in the paddles.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">4 x pool buoy between legs no paddles</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">4 x fast swim.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">4 x legs only, holding float with head out of water.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">4 x legs only, holding float with head under water breathing to alternate sides.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">4 x fast swim.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">2 x cool down swim</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">Repeat</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">(4 x means I did 4 lengths of 25 meters)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"></span> </div>
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<em>1000</em></div>
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Since I have a messed up week and going to be lacking in the CV department I went for a run to work option!</div>
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13.2 miles in 1:34.22</div>
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Iain McKenziehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01883953044352848041noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2781170214217126600.post-74421037540582397072013-12-26T00:30:00.001+00:002013-12-29T21:04:24.985+00:00A Wild Weekend with Bear Grylls<div>
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">A wild weekend with Bear Grylls good job nothing happened or it could have been fatal! </span></div>
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There were ill fitting harnesses, poor rope work and set up of anchors, no via ferrata kit, a bowline that wasn't tied off (in this state it is not even a knot and people have died in climbing walls because they have not tied it off) and to top it all off on the final abseil, as well as there not being a safety rope, prussic, the sling used had a knot tied in the middle, was being used as a central anchor with two peoples weight on it, on a scree ridden descent that was loose and chossey, the one person (chief scout) who was controlling the rope and had a complete novice in his hands, wasn't wearing a helmet! </div>
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Sadly and with the greatest of respect I would highly recommend Mountain Training using this as a guide of 'what not to do with a client ', hopefully no novice eh watched/watching this will assume any of the practices shown in this are the way to do things, and sadly the excuse that the person executing this on tv knows what they are doing is not going to wash, as a role model one should be always be demonstrating best practice.</div>
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If you wish to check it out, it's available on 4OD till the 24th January 2014. </div>
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Here are a few of the moments for those that have not had the chance to see it, 'Bear'ing in mind this was Christmas Day viewing;</div>
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Left </div>
Top; Stephen's Harness Fitting. Middle and Bottom; the apparent Via Ferrata Kit<br />
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<br /></div>
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Right</div>
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Top; the single knotted sling holding both Fry & Bear. Middle; Bears Flask going tumbling down after being dropped. Bottom; the only person holding the rope in control, Bear, with no helmet on whilst abseiling down a choss ridden ravine.</div>
<br /></div>
Iain McKenziehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01883953044352848041noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2781170214217126600.post-60742163418528949772013-10-10T11:56:00.001+01:002013-10-12T07:44:03.157+01:00IFSC European Youth Bouldering Cup Laval 2013<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">This weekend (12<sup>th</sup> &
13<sup>th</sup> October 2013) sees the final round of the IFSC European Youth
Bouldering Cup, in Laval, France, where members of Team GB will be competing.<br />
<br />
A massive GB team including Tara Hayes, Rachel Carr, Gracie Martin, Molly
Thompson-Smith, Sidonie Graham, Alexia Basch, Jenifer Wood, Hamish Potokar,
Alex Waterhouse, Edward Mabone, James Mabone, Peter Dawson, William Bosi and
Nathan Phillips will all travel to
Europe with Team Manager Tom Greenall and Assistant Team Manager Clive Phillips
for this final round. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">The full start list is here; <a href="http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!type=starters&comp=1485">http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!type=starters&comp=1485</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"><br />
Over the course of the event there are a number of different ways of keeping
upto date with the progress of the team.<br />
<br />
Firstly, Tom will be tweeting, so if you don’t follow him are keen to keep upto
date then follow;<br />
<br />
<a href="http://twitter.com/GreenallTom"><span style="color: #3778cd; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">http://twitter.com/GreenallTom</span></a><br />
<br />
I assume the hashtag that will be used for all team GB related information will
be the standard one #gbjuniorboulderingteam<br />
<br />
Secondly, Tim Hatch, in the same way he developed the App to keep track of the
scores during the senior Bouldering Team Competitions, he has modified the app
to keep track of the scores during the Junior Bouldering Competitions, the app can be
downloaded for the iPhone from the App Store, it works on the iPad its just
smaller. <br />
<br />
The app is called “IFSC Youth” and can be downloaded here; <br />
<br />
<a href="http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ifsc-europe/id649331932?mt=8"><span style="color: #3778cd; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ifsc-europe/id649331932?mt=8</span></a><br />
<br />
Thirdly, the event is going to be streamed live here; <br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.eyc-laval2013.com/en">http://www.eyc-laval2013.com/en</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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The full details, timings etc can be found on the IFSC Website link;<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #444444; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"><a href="http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/2013/13EYC_LA.pdf">http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/2013/13EYC_LA.pdf</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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Iain McKenziehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01883953044352848041noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2781170214217126600.post-37676844581423480702013-09-19T23:12:00.001+01:002013-10-29T13:13:41.006+00:00#Braindump; Training, Climbing & Common Sense Tips<br />
<div>
This is a bit of a project which will progress over time, the intention is to make a list of common sense approach tips for people who train to climb, whether it to get fitter, better, compete or push it to your maximum!</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Feel free to send suggestions through;</div>
<ol>
<li><b>Stages</b>. Gradually increase your training volume and load in small stages. Pushing too hard too soon could lead to injuries. </li>
<li><b>Consistency</b>. Progression comes from lots of small steps. Normally this is training followed by rest and recovery. Too much training and not enough recovery can lead to over training and a greater chance of becoming injured. </li>
<li><b>Your inner voice</b>. If you have negative thoughts in your head you’ll waste your climbing session, be positive. </li>
<li><b>Practice with purpose</b>. Make sure your sessions count and every session somehow benefits your performance, if it’s not, look at the end goal and change it. </li>
<li><b>Reflection</b>. All your training and sessions should reflect what you aim to achieve. If your end goal is to onsite 6c then make sure your doing lots of ground work on 6b+ endurance, for example one & ones on 6b+ and four by fours on 6b could help with this. </li>
<li><b>Have a Routine or a Mantra</b>. Often some form of ‘word with yourself’ can help through the stressful moments to help regroup and refocus. </li>
<li><b>Targeted training</b>. To improve at any discipline of climbing it is essential to be specific. If you intend to enter the British Lead Climbing Championships you need to be able to lead climb and lead climb well at a specific grade so target your training specifically to what you want to get out of it. </li>
<li><b>Comfort</b>. To progress in climbing you have to push yourself hard, that means pushing yourself out of the comfort zone, that means falling off, sometimes lots, but to progress you must push through it!</li>
<li><b>Progress</b>. Focus on your progress, knowing what you need to do and break down how you’re going to get there. </li>
<li><b>Weaknesses</b>. Work them! If you are rubbish at slopers and you know the route you want to do is full of them, then train on slopers, set problems for yourself in the boulder wall or on lead routes to help you work your weaknesses.</li>
<li><b>Back up plan</b>. Whether it’s a route, redpoint, boulder problem, onsight, competition, etc, think about what could happen on route and where it could happen. Write them down and next to each one write down a backup plan. This way you have mentally rehearsed problems and though about them before they happen.</li>
<li><b>Swat up</b>. If you are visiting a new crag to do a specific route, climbing at a competition in another country or off bouldering in the Peak, swat up on the venue, location, logistics, how your going to get there, the walkthrough, what the wall is like, angles, how many quickdraws you need, etc. Familiarity with the place your visiting will help take some of the nerves out of what your going to do and will be one less stress to think about.</li>
<li><b>Partners</b>. Train and climb with people who you can trust and who motivate and bring the best out of you. It’s pointless having people around you who are negative and drag the sessions down.</li>
<li><b>Goals</b>. By setting goals you know what you want to achieve and when. By using the SMART (ER) system (Specific, Measurable, Achievable, Realistic, Timely (Evaluate and Revisit)) you can break your long term goal into manageable targets meaning your end goal is more achievable.</li>
<li><b>Route Reading</b>. Route reading properly can mean the difference between moving smoothly through a section and wasting energy matching hands, searching for feet or down climbing to fix sequences and should be practiced. Things to consider when route reading include finding the rests, clipping positions, cruxes, alternate sequences, pacing and when you’ll need to move fast or slow and the distances between holds. Route reading can be the difference between success or failure.</li>
<li><b>Visualisation</b>. Think about the your best ever climb, take some time to relax and go through how you felt, your emotions, how you moved on the rock, if you were leading how was your gear, what sounds could you hear, now picture the route or problem you want to do and go through the process but visualise yourself on it, climbing the same way you did before. By visualising you can take a lot of the pre climb nerves away as you are mentally rehersing and going through the process.</li>
<li><b>Guidance</b>. Don’t be afraid to ask for some guidance if needed, from peers, coaches or on the internet, although the latter should not be belived all the time!, there are so many tweaks and things that wok differently in climbing for different people so have a good range of tools to draw from.</li>
<li><b>Planning</b>. Plan when and what your going to eat, how your going to get to the venue/crag, go through how you will warm up well in advance and practice. if your in a competition make sure you know your start time, you could have travelled a long way to find your disqualified for being late.</li>
<li><b>Warm Up</b>. A good dynamic warm up before you climb will get you both mentally and physically prepared. Remember, when you get on the wall whether it’s a qualifier in an international competition or a boulder problem in the peak that your wanting to flash, you should be properly warmed up and ready to pull as hard as you can.</li>
<li><b>Know the start</b>. Take time to look at the start of the route, there is nothing more disheartening than spending loads of time looking at the route, finding the crux and all the rests, thinking you know exactly what to do and where and then you pull onto the wall and fall off the second move, take time over the start.</li>
<li><b>Relax</b>. Nervous tension will naturally cause tightness in your muscles, tight muscles do not preform as well as loose properly warmed up relaxed muscles. Practice drills in your training sessions to get you in a relaxed state of mind. </li>
<li><b>Pacing</b>. Knowing when to climb fast and when to take your time is important and different for everyone, some people will climb fast through the easy sections and slow through the tricky cruxy section and vice versa, try different speeds and work out what suits you best but always make sure whatever style you choose you keep enough in the tank to top the route!</li>
<li><b>Chalk</b>. Chalk can more often than not be a placebo, you do not need to be dipping your hand in your chalk bag every 2 moves, hanging around dipping could time you out in a competition or cause you to burn out on a route. Make sure you have enough on your hands to get a good way up the route before having to re chalk up, and if you do it as a habit, try to break the habit, practice in training session with out chalk or with chalk on only at the start of the route and no chalk bag, you'll save time and energy.</li>
<li><b>Mental notes</b>. Make a note of the holds that you plan to rest and chalk up from and stick to them, this will give you a focus on route and stop you taking unplanned breaks.</li>
<li><b>Shoes</b>. There are shoes for pretty much every style of climbing make sure you are wearing the right ones but most importantly make sure they fit you properly, don't be tricked into thinking that because 'X' wears 'XX' type of shoes 3 sizes too small you have to do the same to be able to climb as hard.</li>
<li><b>Laces/Velcro</b>. While we're on shoes, make sure your shoes are properly done up before you climb, no further explanation needed!</li>
<li><b>Distance</b>. If the route your planning to do is a 35 meter 7b make sure you have done the distance in your training and endurance work to get you up it! </li>
<li><b>Drills</b>. Drills are as important to practice as doing routes and boulder problems. They not only create muscle memory but they create move memory and in turn give you the confidence to do that move you were dreading doing 2 meters above that dodgy bit of gear, or like me, 1 foot above the last bolt!</li>
<li><b>Clipping</b>. Practice clipping from all different angles, positions and with different hands, you never know in a competition or on a route the position you might have to clip from. The clip can in some instances be the crux, in a competition if you don't clip in sequence you will be disqualified.</li>
<li><b>Fit for purpose</b>. Make sure the kit you are using is well maintained and fit for purpose, if your looking at a big fall the last thing you want to be questioning is how old and trashed your rope is!</li>
<li><b>P.P.P.P.P.P. - P</b>urposeful <b>P</b>ractice <b>P</b>revents <b>P</b>iss <b>P</b>oor <b>P</b>erformance </li>
<li><b>Listen to your body</b> - especially if your injured! (<i>Tom Bond</i>)</li>
<li><b>Spice it Up</b>. Variety is good - its not good to train one area specifically for too long! mixing it up is good for you. (<i>Tom Bond</i>)</li>
<li><b>Food and Drink.</b> It is important to ensure you are properly fuelled and hydrated before you climb, in a competition it is often overlooked or nerves gets the better, work it into your pre climb/competition routine how much you need to have and that way it becomes second nature.</li>
<li><b>Muscle Memory</b>. Your body will naturally preform better at tasks it has already practised, if you are training for routes, do routes similar to what your goal is.</li>
<li><b>Redpionting</b>. If your goal is to redpoint a route you will have had an opportunity to study the route in great detail, you should ensure you know the moves, style, crux, pacing, clipping positions rest positions and every intimate detail about the route to ensure a good clean ascent.</li>
<li><b>Onsighting</b>. If your plan is to onsight a route you need to work as much as possible before hand to ensure you will be able to deal with all the on route problems you may encounter from not knowing the route. Spending time shaking out, reading moves on route, matching hands, swapping feet, awkward clipping positions and stress can all be worked in the comfort of the climbing wall.</li>
<li><b>Good Intentions</b>. Train as you intend to climb. If you want to climb well and get the route done you want to then you are going to have to work at it. Pick your route goals well, find similar routes and styles of climbing and work them, these will all add to your toolbox of knowledge.</li>
<li><b>Relax.</b> To preform at your best make sure you are staying as relaxed as possible on route, that way you wont be over gripping and burning out or getting pumped.</li>
<li><b>Use your legs</b>. By using your legs wisely you can push, pull and generate momentum through sequences to take the pressure of your arms.</li>
</ol>
Iain McKenziehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01883953044352848041noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2781170214217126600.post-79537918764550745832013-06-19T16:04:00.001+01:002013-06-29T09:30:07.597+01:00IFSC European Youth Bouldering Championships Sofia - Keep upto dateThe weekend of the 29th & 30th June sees the first round of the IFSC European Youth Bouldering Cup, in Sofia, Bulgaria, where 6 members of Team GB will be competing.<br>
<br>
GB Team Member Gracie Martin did a nice round up blog post on the first round in Grindelwald; <a href="http://graciemartinclimber.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/making-history.html">http://graciemartinclimber.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/making-history.html</a><br>
<br>
Nathan Phillips, James Mabon, Tara Hayes, Rachel Carr, Gracie Martin and Sidonie Graham will all travel to Europe with Team Manager Tom Greenall for this second round. Tom has written a good article on the BMC Site here; <br>
<br>
<a href="https://www.thebmc.co.uk/team-gbs-junior-boulderers-prepare-to-launch-european-youth-cup-campaign">https://www.thebmc.co.uk/team-gbs-junior-boulderers-prepare-to-launch-european-youth-cup-campaign</a><br>
<br>
Over the course of the event there are a number of different ways of keeping upto date with the progress of the team.<br>
<br>
Firstly, Tom will be tweeting, so if you don’t follow him are keen to keep upto date then follow;<br>
<br>
<a href="http://twitter.com/GreenallTom">http://twitter.com/GreenallTom</a><br>
<br>
I assume the hashtag that will be used for all team GB related information will be the standard one #gbjuniorboulderingteam<br>
<br>
Secondly, Tim Hatch, in the same way he developed the App to keep track of the scores during the senior Bouldering Team Competitions, he has modified the app to keep track of the scores during the Junior Bouldering Competitions. It worked well in Grindelwald, what you need to remember is that the competition is "scramble format" and the scores are only entered once the competitor has done all 8 problems. Anyway, the app can be downloaded for the iPhone from the App Store, it works on the iPad its just smaller. <br>
<br>
The app is called “IFSC Youth” and can be downloaded here; <br>
<br>
<a href="http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ifsc-europe/id649331932?mt=8">http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ifsc-europe/id649331932?mt=8</a><br>
<br>
Thirdly, the event might be webcast, I have emailed the BCMF and they have said they are looking into it. I have asked for confirmation so as soon as I hear I will update this post. <div><br></div><div>UPDATED EMAIL RESPONSE FROM BCMF;</div><div><br></div><div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">"<i>They still work on it... Once they manage it, I will let you know immediately. Besides don't expect something like World Cups broadcasting, it will be maybe one camera but still we think is something to enjoy </i>:))"</span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><b>29/06/13 - Update</b></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br></span></div><div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">"<i>Finally they did something...</i></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><i><br></i></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><i>Here is the link;</i></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><i><br></i></span></div><div><span style="font-family: '.HelveticaNeueUI'; font-size: 15px; line-height: 19px; white-space: nowrap; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); ">http://m.ustream.tv/channel/boulderland</span></div><div><span style="font-family: '.HelveticaNeueUI'; font-size: 15px; line-height: 19px; white-space: nowrap; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); "><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><i>As I told you, this is only one camera, but still is something :))</i></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><i><br></i></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><i>And here is the updated program:</i></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><i><br></i></span></div><div><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm; "><font style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><i>Saturday, June 29th</i></font></p><p align="LEFT" style="text-align: -webkit-auto; margin-bottom: 0cm; "><font style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><i>0<span lang="en-US">9</span>:<span lang="en-US">0</span>0 - Warm-up zone opening</i></font></p><p align="LEFT" style="text-align: -webkit-auto; margin-bottom: 0cm; "><font style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><i><span lang="en-US">10</span>:<span lang="en-US">0</span>0 - 11:<span lang="en-US">3</span>0 - Qualification Youth B <span lang="en-US">F</span>emale</i></font></p><p align="LEFT" style="text-align: -webkit-auto; margin-bottom: 0cm; "><font style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><i>1<span lang="en-US">2</span>:<span lang="en-US">00</span> - 1<span lang="en-US">3</span>:<span lang="en-US">3</span>0 - Qualification Youth B <span lang="en-US">M</span>ale</i></font></p><p align="LEFT" style="text-align: -webkit-auto; margin-bottom: 0cm; "><font style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><i>1<span lang="en-US">4</span>:<span lang="en-US">0</span>0 - 1<span lang="en-US">5</span>:<span lang="en-US">3</span>0 - Qualification Youth A <span lang="en-US">and </span>Juniors <span lang="en-US">F</span>emale</i></font></p><p align="LEFT" style="text-align: -webkit-auto; margin-bottom: 0cm; "><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><i><font>1</font><font><span lang="en-US">6</span></font><font>:</font><font><span lang="en-US">0</span></font><font>0 - </font><font><span lang="en-US">17:30</span></font><font> - Qualification Youth A </font><font><span lang="en-US">and </span></font><font>Juniors </font><font><span lang="en-US">M</span></font><font>ale</font></i></span></p><p align="LEFT" style="text-align: -webkit-auto; margin-bottom: 0cm; "><font style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><i>For tomorrow no changes. "</i></font></p><p align="LEFT" style="text-align: -webkit-auto;font-family: Tahoma, 'Sans Serif', Arial; font-size: 11px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; margin-bottom: 0cm; "><font face="Arial, sans-serif"><font style="font-size: 11pt; "><br></font></font></p></div></div>
<br>
The timings are (Sofia is +1 so ie 08:30 listed is 07:30 UK time) ; <br>
<br>
Friday, June 28th<br>
19:00 - 20:00 Registration of participants (Competition Venue)<br>
20:00 - 20:30 Technical meeting<br>
<br>
Saturday, June 29th<br>
08:30 - Warm-up zone opening<br>
09:30 - 11:00 - Qualification Youth B female<br>
11:20 - 12:50 - Qualification Youth B male<br>
13:10 - 14:40 - Qualification Youth A female<br>
14:50 - 16:20 - Qualification Youth Juniors female<br>
16:40 - 18:10 - Qualification Youth A male<br>
18:30 - 20:00 - Qualification Juniors male<br>
<br>
* Depending on the numbers of the competitors, the program may vary<br>
<br>
Sunday, June 30th<br>
08:30 - Isolation zone opening Youth B, Youth A and Junior female<br>
09:30 - Isolation zone closing<br>
10:00 - 12:00 - Finals categories Youth B, Youth A and Junior female (6 competitors/cat., 3 boulders /cat.)<br>
12:00 - Isolation zone opening Youth B, Youth A and Junior male<br>
12:30 - Isolation zone closing<br>
13:00 – 15:00 - Finals categories Youth B, Youth A and Junior male (6 competitors/cat., 3 boulders/cat.)<br>
15:30 - Award ceremonytimings etc can be found on the IFSC Website; <br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br></div>Iain McKenziehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01883953044352848041noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2781170214217126600.post-4772387734735423802013-06-07T15:27:00.001+01:002013-06-07T15:32:01.747+01:00Bonehill Rocks - Dartmoor<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I was running a NICAS Level 5 and Primary Centre re-induction at the <a href="http://www.quayclimbingcentre.co.uk/" target="_blank">Quay Climbing Centre</a> in Exeter, I made a rough plan to catch up with <a href="https://twitter.com/Mark_Bullock_" target="_blank">Mark Bullock</a> to discuss a trip to Yosemite we are planning and Mark suggested having a dash out to sample some of the Bouldering on Dartmoor before having some food and drink.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: start;">
Having never been to the area before it was too good an opportunity to pass up, although my finger is still not 100% Mark promised a nice easy session... </div>
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<br /></div>
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First impressions did not let me down, the area is stunning... </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hound Tor from the carpark</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approach into Bonehill Rocks</td></tr>
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The weather was stunning, it was warm, very quiet and there was a gentle breeze... </div>
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Because the sun was low it meant that certain areas you were able to get quite *arty* with the photos, here is Mark on the *Warm Up Slab*</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mark Bullock on "4a Crack" on Warm Up Slab </td></tr>
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After having a whistle stop tour and getting quite a few problems done we both went over and had a play on the Arete near the Wave ...<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain on (spent more time off it!) "Problem 86" on The Wave</td></tr>
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The Full Guide for the Area can be found here;<br />
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<a href="http://javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorBouldering/index.shtml">http://javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorBouldering/index.shtml</a><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small; text-align: start;">luckily my finger didn't swell too badly after the session!!</span></td></tr>
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Anyway, here is a quick video of a few of the problems, all in all a stunning location with some excellent Bouldering... Massive thanks to Mark for an excellent evening ...<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/UxhaZ6eqI3w?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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<br />Iain McKenziehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01883953044352848041noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2781170214217126600.post-68434338440917224382013-06-07T12:49:00.001+01:002013-06-07T12:58:07.871+01:00Competition Information; Bouldering in Vail & Lead in EdinburghThe senior bouldering team are in Vail this weekend competing in the World Cup. <br />
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The event will be webcast live on the IFSC Site and the plan is as follows (UK Times)… <br />
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Friday 7th June 2013<br />
1600 Female Qualification Round Begins<br />
2200 Male Qualification Round Begins<br />
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Saturday 8th June 2013<br />
1700 Semi-Final<br />
2345 Final<br />
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Watch the event here; <a href="http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/">http://www.ifsc-climbing.org</a> if you have any problems with the IFSC Site it is also on their YouTube channel; <a href="http://www.youtube.com/ifscchannel">http://www.youtube.com/ifscchannel</a><br />
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If you can’t watch because you are at work or going out and if you have an iPhone you can keep upto date with the live scores as they happen by the app designed & developed by Tim Hatch. It’s called “IFSC Boulder” and can be downloaded here; <a href="http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ifsc-boulder/id616662988?mt=8">http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ifsc-boulder/id616662988?mt=8</a><br />
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Full information about the Vail event can be found here; (just remember the UK is & 7 hours ahead) <a href="http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/2013/13_WC_VA.pdf">http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/2013/13_WC_VA.pdf</a><br />
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If you use Twitter the hashtag #IFSCwc is used to keep upto date. Post or comment on the competition.<br />
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This weekend also sees the first round of the IFSC European Youth Championships (lead), at Ratho, Edinburgh, where 16 members of Team GB will be competing<br />
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I am pretty sure the event is not being webcast, I can’t find any information on the IFSC Site or the Ratho site to say it is being webcast, if anyone knows any differently please let me know.<br />
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Tim Hatch, in the same way he developed the App to keep track of the scores during the senior Bouldering Team Competitions, he has modified the app to keep track of the scores during the Youth Competitions. The app can be downloaded for the iPhone from the App Store, it works on the iPad its just smaller. <br />
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The app is called “IFSC Youth” and can be downloaded here; <br />
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<a href="http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ifsc-europe/id649331932?mt=8">http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ifsc-europe/id649331932?mt=8</a><br />
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The full details, timings etc can be found on the IFSC Website; <br />
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<a href="http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/2013/13EYC_ED.pdf">http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/2013/13EYC_ED.pdf</a><br />
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Good luck to all taking part.Iain McKenziehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01883953044352848041noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2781170214217126600.post-87605108824766736112013-05-29T13:11:00.005+01:002013-05-29T14:16:15.318+01:00Leicester Sprint Triathlon 2013<strong>Beginnings</strong><br />
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While it’s fresh in my mind I’ll jot down some notes on my first triathlon, I’ll pad this out with some photos when I get a chance.</div>
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This was my first triathlon, a friend, Lisa Potter, suggested back in November that it would be a good thing to aim for, so immediately I signed up for it. <br />
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I cycle to work every day roughly a 22 mile round trip and my running is not too shabby so how hard could it be… all I had to do was learn to swim!! <br />
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Luckily I work at a Leisure Centre that has a pool, it’s a leisure beach pool so lengths is out of the question but it’s possible to do 15m widths. I spoke to Greg Wholton at work and he set me on my my teaching me the basics, all I had to do was 400m in the pool.</div>
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Training in November and December was going well and I had started to combine the Swim, Bike and Run in the Centre, I was averaging at about 1.22 – 1.30 my swim went from 13 minutes down to 7.30 and progress was good. </div>
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I had just returned from a trip to Slovenia and I was pretty fit in January so with the heavy snow in I decided to ski 12.6 miles cross-country, BOOM… 2 miles from work I blew my calf muscle… this was a major set back… I couldn’t run, to be fair walking was an issue! </div>
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I carried on cycling to work and swimming while I could to maintain fitness… in March I tried another run and it went again straight away… this was going to be a problem!! </div>
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I spoke to Carol Hayes who strapped it and properly diagnosed it, 6 weeks off and then a gentle re introduction to running was the plan, this would take me right up to the 7th May!! The race was was on the 27th May… not much time to get properly prepare.</div>
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I took Carols advice seriously, I didn’t do any running or training on my calf, I just maintained the cycling. Swimming was an issue as a Rotator Cuff injury from climbing was becoming a problem and starting to hurt so I stopped swimming as well.</div>
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May came quickly around and I had a trip to a place called Kessingland on the East Coast planned so I used this as my get back into swimming and running excuse… I did a few long gentle runs on the Beach and spent some time in the pool, it was all hard again and I was panicking!!<br />
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Back at work and Steph talked me into doing another Swim, Bike & Run session the week before the Triathlon, this was exactly what I needed, I had only run 3 times since January and I was very nervous about the triathlon, on the whole, in that session, my Swim was 8:40, Bike 46.03 and the Run was 21.45, although a lot slower than I wanted I didn’t feel too bad, the calf was still intact!! <br />
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That was my final session before the Triathlon, I spoke to Scott from the Gym at work about nutrition and I was sorted… all I had to do was turn up and take part!<br />
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<strong>Triathlon Day</strong><br />
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I hardly slept the night before the Triathlon, that nervous excited butterflies in the stomach feeling … I kept running through the transitions and racking and when I was going to take on fluid and how I was going to lay my kit out and… and… and …. Pants… 7:15am … I’d slept in!!<br />
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A mad dash round to get sorted and out the door… <br />
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The venue was Leicester Grammar School which is situated just outside Leicester near the village of Great Glen. <br />
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When we arrived at 8:25 I met Steph and we got registered and went to the race briefing, this proved massively important because we were clearly talked through the transition zone, where to enter and exit for the bike and the run, there were a few during the race that either paid no attention or hadn’t been there and were running about lost!, and got a good idea of the runnings or the day, signage on the cycle route and the marshals on the running route.<br />
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My start time was 10:32 so I took my time getting my transition area sorted and just sat back and watched what everyone was doing to get my head round it all.<br />
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I had my Gel 15 minutes before my start time, got changed and wandered over to the pool, I was remarkably relaxed!! <br />
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<strong>400m Swim</strong><br />
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This was never going to be pretty… I was in lane 5, to my right I had a girl who was a swimmer and all I could think was worry about my own pace, take my time, I can do this.<br />
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We were starting in waves of 3 minutes and there was already two people in my lane, they were moving easily, I was preparing to flounder!! <br />
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As the marshal gave the 30 second count down I got into the pool… stay calm I thought… 5, 4, 3, 2, 1 … gone… I was off… and whats more I was keeping pace with the swimmer!! Excellent! My training had paid off… I found myself quickly at the other end and things were going great… just 15 more lengths to go… <br />
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… things did go great and I kept a good pace right up till the end of the 10th length, I got totally shut down… it became a mission to just do the 11th length… catch breath… 12th… catch breath… 13th… 14th… 15th … and thank god for the 16th<br />
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My plan to go at my own pace had busted out the window and I had gone off far too fast… yes it was a quick 10 lengths but it cost me dearly and I finished my swim in a time of 08:36.<br />
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Straight out and into transition 1… <br />
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<strong>Transition 1</strong><br />
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As we left the pool we ran out a fire door, down a ramp and along the path to the transition area. It was a weird sensation, I remember the wind taking my breath away and my eyes adjusting to the light … <br />
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My transition area was situated close to the pool and I found it with ease.<br />
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All my run through and watching YouTube had paid off, my sunglasses were inside my helmet which was on top of my race number lying over the tri bars on the bike, my shoes were open and at the end of a towel lying on the ground next to my bike.<br />
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I stood on my towel, picked up my glasses and put them on straight away followed by helmet clipped closed and race belt straight on… once all done I slipped straight into my shoes and pulled the Velcro over… done… I was off… <br />
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Transition 1 done in 01:12 and off on the cycle.<br />
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<strong>20k Cycle </strong></div>
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As we cleared transition we left the school and into Great Glen, the course was very windy!</div>
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I took note of what Johnny had said in the briefing and looked for the BIG Yellow signs… this gave me time to consider the turn and thank the marshals at each point. <br />
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It was a good course that had the uphills, downhills and straights, it was just a shame about the wind. </div>
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At one point I was going flying down a hill there was nobody in front or behind and there was a chicane over a bridge coming up, I dropped the gears and went for it, the bike reached a speed of 59.6KPH and zoomed straight through it… </div>
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I’d fuelled myself well, my cycling too and from work was paying off and I thought to myself … “I am a machine!!” and boshhhhh … straight into a head wind that almost stopped me dead!! </div>
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I passed quite a few people on the bike and I was going as fast as I could on the straights, towards the end I was thinking that I was going well and then some bloke on a full on carbon bike with tear drop helmet passed me, in comparison, I then felt like I was on a 3 wheeled scooter with wobbly wheels and a broken pedal, this bloke was flying!</div>
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15 minutes before the end I knew I needed to take on a gel so I got it out from my pocket and carefully opened it with my teeth… this was the first time I had tried to have a gel whilst cycling and in the process of trying to put the top back in my pocket it got the gel all over my right hand which in turn then transferred to my handel bar, break, and tri bar… more practice needed!!</div>
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Coming back through Great Glen it was nice to hear people cheering and clapping, we entered the school and back into transition for the 2nd time… </div>
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The cycle was done in 41:04<br />
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<strong>Transition 2</strong></div>
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This was going to be easy… I had gone through this a few times at work and I was totally happy with it… </div>
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In rack bike, out of shoes and straight into trainers, helmet and glasses off … gone… </div>
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As I left the racks in our area were very low and somebody on the other side was struggling to get his bike under… as he tilted his bike under it sent my bike off the rack… so … <br />
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Re rack… and gone… bit of a delay… number belt turned around as I leave the transition area… </div>
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Transition 2 done in 01:18, I lost at least 30 seconds running back to re rack my bike… off on the run.. </div>
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<strong>5k Run </strong></div>
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I was worried about the running, since tearing my calf in January I had only managed 5 runs so I didn’t have any idea if it would hold up, hurt or even if I’d manage it! </div>
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We left the transition area via a different route to the bikes.. (learnt in the briefing which I was glad I attended!) to a cheering crowd, this was good, I got quickly into my stride and felt comfortable… we left the school and headed down hill back into Great Glen, the marshals and signage was out, these were the slightly smaller yellow signs that we had to follow.. </div>
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It was nice to hear people out cheering, there were a few families in Great Glen that were cheering everyone on… this was very much appreciated and helped spur me on… </div>
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I was feeling good, I had a good stride and was pacing myself at around 16kph.</div>
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I remember passing a girl on the way down who was holding her stomach and she had tears streaming down her face… she had a stitch… on the way back it was excellent to see her running.. I passed Steph and then Nicola who were on the way to the turn around point.. they were both looking comfortable… </div>
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Back into the school and the end was in sight… I tried to speed up but my legs would physically not do it… no matter how many times I called myself all sorts of bad words I couldn’t go any faster!</div>
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I finished with lots of people clapping and to familiar faces… </div>
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It was done…</div>
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Run done in 18:42 </div>
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Happy… </div>
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<strong>Finishing</strong></div>
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I was very pleased to have finished my first triathlon, I did it in a total time of 01.10:55 my goal had been 01.15:00… </div>
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So two goals broken and feeling happy!</div>
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Now planning to do the Desford Sprint Tri in August so watch this space… </div>
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Massive thanks to Racetime Events and all the Marshals and Volunteers who put the time and effort in on a Bank Holiday Monday to help run such a smooth event. </div>
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Thanks to all the guys who came to watch and a massive well done to Steph, Nicola and Ian (and everyone else) who took part!</div>
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Me & Steph at the finish line... </div>
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Iain McKenziehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01883953044352848041noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2781170214217126600.post-10285834403690032642013-05-22T11:10:00.001+01:002013-05-22T11:25:04.563+01:00IFSC European Youth Bouldering Championships Grindelwald - Keep upto dateThis weekend sees the first round of the IFSC European Youth Bouldering Championships, in Grindelwald, Switzerland, where 5 members of Team GB will be competing.<br />
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Nathan Phillips, Tara Hayes, Rachel Carr, Gracie Martin and Hamish Potokar will all travel to Europe with Team Manager Tom Greenall for this first round. Tom has written a good article on the BMC Site here; <br />
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<a href="http://www.thebmc.co.uk/exciting-times-for-gb-junior-bouldering">http://www.thebmc.co.uk/exciting-times-for-gb-junior-bouldering</a><br />
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Over the course of the event there are a number of different ways of keeping upto date with the progress of the team.<br />
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Firstly, Tom will be tweeting, so if you don’t follow him are keen to keep upto date then follow;<br />
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<a href="http://twitter.com/GreenallTom">http://twitter.com/GreenallTom</a><br />
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I assume the hashtag that will be used for all team GB related information will be the standard one #gbjuniorboulderingteam<br />
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Secondly, Tim Hatch, in the same way he developed the App to keep track of the scores during the senior Bouldering Team Competitions, he has modified the app to keep track of the scores during the Junior Bouldering Competitions. Tim’s caveat is "it should work" this will be the first time it’s going to be tested live so there may be a few glitches, I doubt very much if there will be any problems but it’s a good way to arse cover!! Anyway, the app can be downloaded for the iPhone from the App Store, it works on the iPad its just smaller. <br />
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The app is called “IFSC Europe” and can be downloaded here; <br />
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<a href="http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ifsc-europe/id649331932?mt=8">http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ifsc-europe/id649331932?mt=8</a><br />
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Thirdly, the event is going to be streamed live here; <br />
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<a href="http://www.swiss-sport.tv/">http://www.swiss-sport.tv</a><br />
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The full details, timings etc can be found on the IFSC Website; <br />
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<a href="http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/news/latest-news/item/290-european-youth-championship-grindelwald-2013">http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/news/latest-news/item/290-european-youth-championship-grindelwald-2013</a><br />
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<br />Iain McKenziehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01883953044352848041noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2781170214217126600.post-7512543392366815552013-04-17T15:03:00.003+01:002013-05-11T18:00:55.945+01:00Six Piolets d’Or 2013 Award Winners - The Videos & linksMost people have an opinion on the Piolets d’Or Awards, its been marred since the decision of the jury at the 2013 Piolets d’Or to share the prize among all six shortlisted, half the organising committee quit, Ed Douglas wrote a good article here; <a href="https://www.thebmc.co.uk/everyones-a-winner-at-the-piolets-dor">https://www.thebmc.co.uk/everyones-a-winner-at-the-piolets-dor</a><br />
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Following in the footsteps of Walter Bonatti (2009), Reinhold Messner (2010), Doug Scott (2011) and Robert Paragot (2012), Kurt Diemberger wins the fifth Piolets d'Or lifetime achievement award, here we have a good account by Lindsay Griffin of the what makes someone worthy of such an acheivement; <a href="https://www.thebmc.co.uk/2013-piolets-dor-lifetime-achievement-award-announced">https://www.thebmc.co.uk/2013-piolets-dor-lifetime-achievement-award-announced</a><br />
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I don't do that much high stuff in the Mountains and the Alps any more, I have no real drive or enough time, I enjoy the shorter and less condition dependent valley ice trip however I did always like to follow the awards and have been lucky enough to meet people that have won awards, I met one of last years winners <a href="http://inclined.americanalpineclub.org/2012/03/congratulations-saser-kangri-ii-team-wins-piolet-dor-award/" target="_blank">Luka Strazar</a> on a recent trip to Slovenis and it was excellent to hear about his experiences first hand.<br />
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So with that and enough rambling, here are a series of short video clips highlighting the six ascents that were chosen as the winners of the 2013 Piolets d’Or Awards, you can make your own minds up or just sit back and watch some excellent footage.<br />
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<strong>Kyashar; <a href="http://vimeo.com/62713582">http://vimeo.com/62713582</a></strong><br />
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A coveted line, having been the goal of at least seven previous expeditions, the first ascent of the 2,200m south pillar of Kyashar was one of the finest technical alpine-style climbs in Nepal last autumn. Japan's Tatsuya Aoki, Yasuhiro Hanatani and Hiroyoshi Manome took six days to climb this elegant line to the summit, making only the second known ascent of the mountain. A crux section of ridge on the fifth day was deemed irreversible, adding to the commitment. The three descended the west ridge with one further bivouac.<br />
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<strong>Muztagh Tower; </strong><a href="http://vimeo.com/62740614"><strong>http://vimeo.com/62740614</strong></a><strong> </strong><br />
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Much discussed, though never previously attempted, the 2,000m northeast spur of this iconic Karakoram peak took Russians Dmitry Golovchenko, Alexander Lange and Sergey Nilov 17 days to complete. The three climbed alpine-style but took a large haul bag of food and fuel, a strategy which allowed them to sit out, or persevere slowly through bad weather. The technical crux proved to be the very steep rock barrier between 6,600m and 6,900m. Supplies ran out shortly before they gained the main (east) summit, and in bad weather they were unable to reach the northwest ridge, their planned descent. Instead, they came straight down the north face. <br />
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<strong>Baintha Brakk (The Ogre); </strong><a href="http://vimeo.com/62704963"><strong>http://vimeo.com/62704963</strong></a> <br />
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The Ogre is one of the most celebrated of the world's mountains yet until last year had been summited only twice, and never from the south, despite many attempts. The Americans Kyle Dempster, Hayden Kennedy, and Josh Wharton chose a cunning line up the southeast ridge to southeast face to south face. Gaining the upper south face involved a steep traverse across complete rubble and, higher, they overcame hard sections of mixed ground. From a bivouac at 6,900m, Dempster and Kennedy reached the summit but then had to make a difficult descent with an unwell Wharton. <br />
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<strong>Mazeno Ridge Nanga Parbat; </strong><a href="http://vimeo.com/62718102"><strong></strong></a><strong><a href="http://vimeo.com/62718102">http://vimeo.com/62718102</a></strong><br />
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The Mazeno Ridge of Nanga Parbat - at over 10km probably the longest ridge of any 8,000m peaks - was one of the most famous unclimbed lines on the great Himalayan mountains. Accompanied by Cathy O'Dowd (S Africa), Lhakpa Rangdu Sherpa, Lhakpa Zarok Sherpa and Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa (Nepal), British alpinists Sandy Allan and Rick Allen made a first summit bid from their bivouac at 7,200m but this proved unsuccessful and all but Allan and Allen gave up and made a difficult descent to the south. The British pair traversed the north flank to the summit and made a difficult descent of the Normal Route on the north flank, reaching the bottom after an alpine-style traverse lasting 18 days.<br />
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<strong>Kamet; </strong><a href="http://vimeo.com/62708330"><strong></strong></a><strong><a href="http://vimeo.com/62708330">http://vimeo.com/62708330</a></strong><br />
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Kamet is the highest mountain in India for which it is currently possible to gain a permit, and the ca 2,000m southwest face was previously unattempted. After establishing an advanced base in the glacier bowl below this steep mixed wall, France's Sébastien Bohin, Didier Jourdain, Sébastien Moatti and Sébastien Ratel climbed it, alpine-style, in five days. They found conditions excellent and connected a succession of steep snow fields linked by often vertical ice pitches to reach a bivouac on the south ridge at 7,500m. The summit day presented unexpected difficulties, after which the team descended to the bivouac and next day went down the previously untouched south face.<br />
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<strong>Shiva; </strong><a href="http://vimeo.com/62741719"><strong></strong></a><strong><a href="http://vimeo.com/62741719">http://vimeo.com/62741719</a></strong><br />
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Elegance summarizes the traverse of this mountain east of Kishtwar, effected via the arrow-like northeast ridge, dubbed the Prow of Shiva, followed by a descent of the south ridge. It was the fifth known ascent of the mountain. British alpinists Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden, 2003 recipients of a Piolet d'Or, completed a traverse in a nine-day round trip from base camp, finding sustained climbing on the Prow, which ranged from numerous pitches up icy cracks in Chamonix-style granite to long, protectionless leads on thinly-iced slabs reminiscent of winter climbing on Ben Nevis.<br />
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Here is the latest in the discussion about the Awards; <a href="http://www.summitpost.org/phpBB3/piolets-d-or-6-winners-t64786.html">http://www.summitpost.org/phpBB3/piolets-d-or-6-winners-t64786.html</a><br />
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Here is the reply from Stephen Venables to Manu Rivaud that was posted on Facebook;<br />
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<i><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">For anyone following the Piolets d'Or controversy, here is the reply I sent to Manu Rivaud at Montagnes magazine. There is a full discussion at:</span><a href="http://www.summitpost.org/phpBB3/piolets-d-or-6-winners-t64786.html" rel="nofollow nofollow" style="background-color: white; color: #3b5998; cursor: pointer; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">http://www.summitpost.org/phpBB3/piolets-d-or-6-winners-t64786.html</a><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">Dear Manu</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">I was sorry not to see you at the Piolets d’Or and even more sorry to hear that you have decided to withdraw from the event. I was also appalled by some of your public criticisms of me and my jury. I was shortlisted for the first ever Piolets and I have been involved with the event at various stages over the last twenty years, promoting it in the press and serving once before as president. As for my fellow jurors, all three of them are amongst the finest mountaineers in the world, so I think you were rash to question their judgement so aggressively.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">I will answer your specific questions in a moment, but first the general principle behind our decisions. Over the last few years it has become increasingly obvious that choosing a single ‘winnner’ – or two winners, or three winners – from a shortlist of outstanding climbs is highly haphazard and subjective. More important, it goes completely against the whole spirit of alpinism. Mountaineering is not an Olympic sport with simple quantifiable criteria. It is creative and diverse and every ascent is unique. Amongst a shortlist of six outstanding climbs, we will never be comparing like with like. That is why previous Jury presidents were so reluctant to choose ‘winners’ and that is why several prominent nominees decided to boycott past events.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">This year’s jury relied considerably on the expertise of the Piolets d’Or organisers and advisers, in particular Christian Trommsdorff, Rolando Garibotti and Lindsay Griffin. (The latter has far more detailed knowledge of current world climbing than anyone on the Jury, and probably anyone else in the world!). We were also grateful for the advice of former presidents, such as Michael Kennedy. It was with all these people's expert advice and support that we all decided, before Christmas, that we would like, ideally, to award Piolets d’Or to all the nominees. This was a deliberate decision, agreed unanimously, to suggest what we felt should be the future direction of the event, representing the best traditions of alpinism.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">I should also point out that in February, whilst I was away leading an expedition in Antarctica, the organisers relied heavily on advice from Silvo Karo, who is of course a hugely experienced Patagonian expert. It was he who suggested that the Cerro Torre ascents should be highlighted with a ‘special mention’ rather than a Piolet d’Or.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">As for the shortlist of six ascents, of course it is very, very hard to say that there was not a seventh, or eighth, equally valid ascent worthy of inclusion. However, as you know, the event is constrained by its budget, so we had to have a limit of six teams. Thanks to expert advice from Lindsay Griffin, however, we felt quite confident that each of the six teams finally selected shared the kind of qualities which the Piolets d’Or seeks to celebrate. In particular, every one of the six shortlisted ascents, shared a huge sense of commitment.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">Now, to answer your specific questions:</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">1.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">Yes, Jumbo and I did spend a whole morning paying very careful attention to the presentations by the six teams. If we had discovered anything negative about any of the climbs, we might have changed our minds about giving all of them awards. In fact the opposite was the case. For me, certainly, the presentations reinforced my admiration for every one of the climbs. In particular, I discovered just how impressive were the four climbs I had previously been less familiar with – Kyashar, Kamet, Mustagh Tower and Baintha Brakh. Most of all, I learned just how committed the Russian team had been on the Mustagh Tower.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">2.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">After the presentation there was little need for discussion. Two members of the jury, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Silvo Karo, were unable to attend, but they had already agreed to the principle of giving everyone an award. Jumbo and I were so impressed by all the presentations that, as I said, it simply reinforced our decision. There was nothing more to discuss.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">3a. </span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">This is an interesting point. I did have some doubts about Kennedy and Dempster leaving Wharton at the high bivouac. However, after discussing this with the two climbers, we learned that they continued to the summit with the blessing of Wharton. They climbed very fast and efficiently, and one day later were still in perfectly fit condition to help Wharton down the mountain. I have been in similar positions myself in the past. On some occasions – eg Kusum Kanguru – we decided to descend with the sick partner; another time – on Everest – we let our sick companion descend alone. Every situation is different and it is not for me to judge. Kennedy and Dempster climb at a much harder standard than I have ever achieved and they are much, much faster. They were able to complete their route safely and look after their companion.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">3b. </span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">I am not sure what you mean about the Russians ‘losing their way’. Perhaps you are referring to the descent, where they took a different route from the one intended. My own feeling is that they made an astounding ascent and descent, showing fantastic tenacity – as remarkable – in its different way – as the seventeen day traverse of Nanga Parbat. As for your suggestion that they were rash to climb in such bad weather, that is for them to decide, not you. They operated as a highly efficient team, moving carefully and slowly, despite terrible condition during the first week. None of them suffered illness, injury or frostbite, and they succeeded in making a difficult, unplanned descent on sight. I think we should applaud their panache.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">I hope this answers your questions. I also trust that you will publish this letter as a riposte to the wild accusations you made earlier this month. I am sorry that I have had to write this letter in English, but my French is not good enough to respond adequately to such harsh criticisms. </span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">Best wishes</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">Stephen</span></i><br />
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<br />Iain McKenziehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01883953044352848041noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2781170214217126600.post-40015101872803968102013-04-02T14:47:00.000+01:002013-04-02T14:47:17.762+01:00Peak Easter 2013<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Here is a quick video of Easter Monday 2013 with Tara Hayes spent Bouldering in a very cold Peak District.</div>
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Iain McKenziehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01883953044352848041noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2781170214217126600.post-1630598226725395812013-04-02T14:36:00.000+01:002013-04-03T18:53:53.904+01:00How do I get better and progress… <div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 18pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMB10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Recently I have had a fair few emails and discussions with various people about how to structure a training programme to get better and progress their grade.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMB10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">As climbers it is assumed that for you to progress and get better you need to either climb more or train loads. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMB10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Both can be hard to do with time constraints, life, family, climbing partners, work and lots of other pressures that get in the way.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMB10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Another (in my opinion) mis-conception that people seem to have is you can’t mix climbing and training with regular partners, so for example, if your partner is not into training then you doing a training session will interfere with their social climb or that they have to be training with you…. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMB10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">The latter of the two is the ideal scenario as you will find that two people training together will generally push the other one and in turn you both progress, however in reality this is not always the case.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMB10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">So, back to the original question, how do I get better and progress… <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMB10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">All in all it is not the time that’s the issue, most people will climb once or twice a week and will generally stay at the wall for a few hours, getting on easy stuff and lapping out F5+ is not going to help you climb F7a if you are at a F6c plateau, which is what the most common trait is.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMB10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">All you need is a bit of structure to your regular session, a partner or someone to hold your ropes and a few hours. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMB10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">I would suggest giving the following a try, replace one session a week with the following for 6 weeks and see how you progress… I’d be keen to know. This is not aimed at elite climbers , if you only climb once a week do this every other week and do it for 12 weeks;<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMB10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">You have a choice depending on facilities and who you are with and what you are working on… <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMB10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><u>Routes Sessions<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" /><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" /><o:p></o:p></u></span></b></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: 'Courier New'; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMR10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Warm up cardio and stretch</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMR10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"> for about 25 minutes<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: 'Courier New'; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMR10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Warm up you climbing muscles on the ropes</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMR10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">, climb 3/4 routes that are well within your capabilities that have a range and different types of moves over different angles.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: 'Courier New'; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMR10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Redpoint routes from the ground every time</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMR10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">, do the last 5 routes that you have worked and got, they should be right at the top end of your limit, if you fall off, pull the ropes and go again, spend about 45 minutes on this.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: 'Courier New'; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMR10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Pick 4 routes that you have already done that are roughly two grades below your maximum and try to do two in a row</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMR10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">, your going to do the same route twice, one after the other, you can lower to the ground after completion or if you fall, pull the rope and go again, this should take about 30 minutes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: 'Courier New'; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMR10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Pick five hard boulder problems that you can do or almost do</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMR10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">. Attempt or do each problem three times in a two minute period. Rest two minutes before moving onto the next problem, this should take about 20 minutes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: 'Courier New'; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMR10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Cool down and stretch</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMR10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"> for about 20 minutes<br /><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br />
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMB10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><u>Boulder Sessions<o:p></o:p></u></span></b></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: 'Courier New'; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMR10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Warm up cardio and stretch</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMR10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"> for about 25 minutes<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: 'Courier New'; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMR10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Warm up bouldering</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMR10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"> on easy problems for about 20 minutes, this should be done on a variety of angles with a wide range of moves.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: 'Courier New'; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMR10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Create boulder circuit with 4 problems that are very hard and not quite right at your limit</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMR10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">. Try to climb the boulder problems in a row & run/move quickly between (not all walls would be happy with you running between problems) them once you have completed one set rest for 3 minutes and repeat, do this 5 times.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: 'Courier New'; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMR10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Work boulder problems from the ground,</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMR10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"> spend about 30 minutes working some boulder problems that you have not done or that are right at your limit.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: 'Courier New'; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMR10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Technique & new movement drill</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMR10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"> (deadpoints, dynos, flagging, rockovers, etc ...) spend about 30 minutes on technique and movement, make the problems up, they should include footwork and hand placement drills aswell as movement.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: 'Courier New'; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Courier New';"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMR10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Cool down and stretch</span></b><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Cambria','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: CMR10; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"> for about 30 minutes.</span></div>
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So mix one session in with your normal regular sessions and let me know how you progress, you might find your maximum limit starts to rise, this is a good thing, don’t stay in your comfort zone, keep pushing the upper limit.<o:p></o:p></div>
Iain McKenziehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01883953044352848041noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2781170214217126600.post-55407102634465289692013-03-28T16:07:00.002+00:002013-03-28T16:15:41.267+00:00Interviews with Anna Stöhr & Patxi UsobiagaLast year whilst working on Psyched! Issue 5 I had a total melt down with technology and it was impossible to get it finished off. With it being unlikely in the short term to get Psyched! back off the ground here are two links to a few of the interviews that Natalie Berry did for us;<br />
<br />
Patxi Usobiaga; <a href="http://www.thetowerclimbingcentre.co.uk/images/PDF/patxi_interview.pdf" target="_blank">http://www.thetowerclimbingcentre.co.uk/images/PDF/patxi_interview.pdf</a><br />
<br />
Anna Stöhr; <a href="http://www.thetowerclimbingcentre.co.uk/images/PDF/anna_stohr.pdf" target="_blank">http://www.thetowerclimbingcentre.co.uk/images/PDF/anna_stohr.pdf</a><br />
<br />
Both of these are the unedited versions and were the original layout proof PDF's that I sent to Anna & Patxi, there are some typos where language has been a issue, normally we would have tidied these up, the photo's in Anna's should have had credits but I can't add the credits as I can't access the program (InDesign) I created the original in and am not intending to buy another version or update my PC anytime soon. To be honest, I quite like the ruggedness of the text..<br />
<br />
The NB at the end of Patxi's article should also have been in his type style, as it was a footnote to his final point!<br />
<br />
They do date back to January 2012 so are a tad out of date but for the historical read I thought it would be good to get them out there.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Iain McKenziehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01883953044352848041noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2781170214217126600.post-46754935993435297722013-03-15T13:37:00.004+00:002013-03-15T13:45:58.092+00:00SWOT Analysis<br />
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<span style="color: #363636; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Taking an analytical look at your climbing,
whether it be for indoors, outdoors, ice, mixed, competition or bouldering, is
the perfect way to psych you up and set you on a direct course of action. It is
not designed to push you into more training, but should give you focus on a
number of factors that all combine to give you the targets you set yourself in
your <a href="http://iainmckenzie.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/smart-goals.html" target="_blank">SMART goals</a>.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #363636; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">You are in control of the outcome of
your climbing goals and doing a SWOT Analysis is a major step in any plan, be
it before you start, in the middle or after an event/competition.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #363636; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Take a sheet of A4; divide it into
four, titled: Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities and Threats (SWOT). <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="color: #363636; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Strength</span></b><span style="color: #363636; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"> If you are good on slopers, for
example, acknowledge it. But remember strengths can never make up for what
weaknesses leave off.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; line-height: 115%;">Some suggestions;</span></div>
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<ul>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Advantages of competing?</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Capabilities?</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Competitive advantages?</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">How you found the event?</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Isolation/crowd?</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Personal ability?</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Lock offs</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Crimps</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Stamina</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Rock Type</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Psychological</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Controlling nerves</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Bouldering</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Onsighting</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Trad</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Sport</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Etc…….</span></li>
</ul>
<b style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -24px;"><span style="font-size: 9pt;">Weakness</span></b><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -24px;"> This may be a physical weakness, mental
weakness or diet related</span><br />
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<span style="color: #363636; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Some suggestions;</span></div>
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<ul>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Gaps in capabilities?</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Lack of experience?</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Opportunities to climb?</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Climbing Partners?</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Location?</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Lack of competitive strength?</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Lack of competitive stamina?</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Reputation, presence, crowds?</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Own known vulnerabilities?</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Over Whelming?</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Fear?</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Fear of falling?</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Type of rock?</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Hold Types?</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Move Types?</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Slabs/Overhangs/etc?</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Etc…..</span></li>
</ul>
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<b><span style="color: #363636; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Opportunity</span></b><span style="color: #363636; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"> Any opportunities that allow you to make
gains and improve. By keeping a log you have an action list.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<ul>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">New developments?</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Tactics: eg, the zone, your head, ability?</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Information and research?</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Influences, experiences?</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Sponsors etc?</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Access to coaches</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Local Climbing Walls</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Location</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Climbing partners</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Team training/events</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Weather</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Job</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Etc …..</span></li>
</ul>
<span style="text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; font-weight: bold;">Threats</span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"> Injury is the biggest threat for any climber.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #363636; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Some suggestions;</span></div>
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<ul>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Illness</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Injury</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Venue</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Commitment</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Peer pressure</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Parental support</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Family Commitments</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Work Commitments</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Personal/Social Circumstances</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Climbing partner</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; text-indent: -18pt;">Etc…..</span></li>
</ul>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="color: #363636; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">As there are loads of variables, you
cannot list everything and these change constantly, by thinking of your current
situation where you can improve and identify your weaknesses will help the
bigger picture. By constantly doing SWOT analysis of your climbing doesn’t make
it a laborious job it identifies trends and areas to work at different times of
the year and will help towards a <a href="http://iainmckenzie.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/smart-goals.html" target="_blank">SMART Training</a> plan not only in the short term but
in the medium to long term aswell!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Iain McKenziehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01883953044352848041noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2781170214217126600.post-83065892733804782632013-03-10T12:30:00.002+00:002013-12-31T13:14:12.352+00:00SMART GoalsAt the end of every training session you should take some time and reflect how it went. All good productive goal setting begins with an evaluation of where you are and where you have been. Taking the time to look back on your sessions can help you see your training and climbing from a different perspective. The best way to do this is as a <a href="http://iainmckenzie.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/swot-analysis.html" target="_blank">SWOT Analysis</a> but the quickest and easiest way is to ask yourself these questions:<br>
<br>
• What am I good at, what are my strengths?<br>
<br>
• What areas have I improved in?<br>
<br>
• What areas did I struggle with?<br>
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• What areas need improvement?<br>
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Your answers to these questions will be the start of your goal/target planning whether it is for the for the upcoming competition season, a route you want to get ticked or just to generally improve your climbing. <br>
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<b>SMART Goals</b><br>
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After determining what you value about your training and climbing, you can move on to setting goals. Goals are most effective when they are <b>SMART goals</b> (Specific, Measurable, Action oriented, Realistic, and Time-limited). <br>
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Here are some ways to set SMART goals:<br>
<br>
<b>Specific</b>: Make sure your goals are not vague or too general. For example, the goal “I want to get better”, is nice, but how are you going to define “better” in this instance? A more specific and helpful goal could be “I want to climb F6b or V8 by X competition or within 6 months”.<br>
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<b>Measurable</b>: Goals are more helpful when you can evaluate your progress towards your goal. If your goal is to get better, how are you going to measure that? Is it by staying injury free, or climbing with new people, or doing well in a competition? Setting a measurable goal will help you determine if you are meeting your goals or not.<br>
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<b>Action Oriented</b>: Goals are going to be more effective when they can be worked towards actively. For example, “I want to onsite F7a” or “I want to redpoint F6b” are goals that you can actively pursue. Setting action oriented goals will help you see the steps you need to take towards accomplishing your goal.<br>
<br>
<b>Realistic</b>: Goals that are not realistic are going to be more hurtful than helpful. I would love to be able onsite 8a but in reality that is not going to happen! If I deny the reality and set that goal for myself, I am only in for disappointment and discouragement. Instead, setting goals and targets that are realistic to your abilities, lifestyle, time constraints and access to climbing whether indoors or outdoors, yet ones that push you to get better are going to be most effective.<br>
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<b>Time-Limited</b>: Goals that have a deadline are going to be more useful than those that are open-ended. Long-term goals are great, but you can set a timeline for those too. Otherwise, goals just get pushed back and not worked on. Set goals for each specific session before you train. Set goals for each training block (4 week block, 6 week bloc etc). Set goals for each competition. Set goals for each season. Set five and 10 year goals. Set lifetime goals.<br>
<br>
After you have explored what you value about training and climbing, and linked those values with SMART goals, keep track of them, keep your goals in a place where you can see them regularly so you know where you are with your training, but most importantly ‘be prepared to be flexible with your goals’. <br>
<br>
Something may come up that presents as an obstacle to reaching a goal. When this happens, re-evaluate what is important to you, and adjust your goals accordingly. Allow your goals to motivate you and help you stay connected to what is most valuable to you<br>
<br>Iain McKenziehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01883953044352848041noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2781170214217126600.post-54345881940977679512013-02-18T13:02:00.001+00:002013-02-18T18:46:47.804+00:00Sprint Tri Training... a starting point... <span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">Sometimes we need a bit of a shake-up in life...
sometimes it is a way of regrouping and taking a different perspective on
things but more often than not it is a form of escapism… I have decided to put
personal climbing on a bit of a back burner for a few months and I needed a new focus…</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">So ... let’s do this properly now...<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">I am pretty rubbish at writing so I will keep this simple, last
year I planned to do a triathlon but got a chest infection which put it on the sidelines, a few months ago Lisa Potter sent me a message on Facebook
saying… "here is something you might be interested in…” with a link to the
Leicestershire Sprint Triathlon.. I hit sign up and here I am writing about
it!! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">Why a triathlon? … not sure… <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">I suppose it is because I get bored running any major distance and
I can’t be bothered putting the time in to do long distance for a marathon…
perhaps can’t be bothered is the wrong definition, I simply don’t have the time and I don't like to do things I am not going to do well in... <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">I can easily run between 3 miles and 7 miles every day depending
how much time I have and what route I am cycling into work via and on that note,
I cycle to work pretty much every day via 3 routes, either a 8.5 miler on road,
11.5 miler cross country or 19.2 miles on the road….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">So why not train for a triathlon, I am doing 2/3rds of the
disciplines anyway and it will give me focus… but… there is a big but… I am
rubbish at swimming…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">Since signing up for the Triathlon I actively set myself the goals
of learning to swim and having access to a pool has made it very easy for my do
be able to go the distance (400m) which to start with was a joke, I was
struggling at 12 meters!! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">So this will be a new slant to the blog... I believe anyone can do well in any sport if
they a few key components… <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">So for me the key components are; <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">1)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><b><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">A
goal</span></b><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;"> that’s achievable, I won’t be able to do a full tri so the
Leicester Sprint Tri is the best option.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">2)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><b><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">A
good base layer of fitness</span></b><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">, which, by putting the pool sessions in I hope I have!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">3)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><b><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">Desire</span></b><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;"> -
training is mentally hard… I want to get better, getting tired is not a bad
thing and I know I am going to have to push myself… <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">4)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><b><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">Access
to facilities</span></b><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">, luckily I have easy access to a pool, I can run
anywhere, I cycle to work pretty much every day and I have a gym at home.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">5)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">And finally<b> …
12 weeks of good consistent training.</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">My Goal is to finish well, I’d like to finish as close
to 1 hour as possible, I think this is easily achievable and I am looking
forward to kicking of my training come the 1<sup>st</sup> March.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">The Triathlon is the Leicester Shire Sprint Tri on the 27th May 2013 and it
consists of a 400 meter swim, 20k on the bike and a 5 k run… Leicester Sprint Tri; <a href="http://www.racetime-events.co.uk/?page_id=335">http://www.racetime-events.co.uk/?page_id=335</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">I will set up a new section on the Blog about my
training and try to do one post a week so hopefully we’ll see a big of
progression… <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Iain McKenziehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01883953044352848041noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2781170214217126600.post-44243222140502392822013-02-18T12:03:00.000+00:002013-02-18T14:52:03.067+00:00Power Endurance (Routes)<br />
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<span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">Power endurance can be defined as the ability of your muscles to
contract at or near </span><span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">maximum for a greater amount of time. <br /><br />The more power endurance you
have the longer you will be able to pull hard moves. Excellent power endurance
is the ultimate goal of a difficulty (lead) competition climber, the ability to pull
hard moves after already pulling numerous hard moves. Unfortunately it is also
the hardest thing to train properly. It requires the correct blend between
strength/power training and endurance training.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">Generally power endurance can be described as climbing for 15-40
moves, or 3-8 minutes on the wall. Power endurance can be closely linked with
redpointing routes. Especially indoors routes tend to be more consistent
meaning that a F7a will have lots of F7a moves stacked on top of each other so
that provides the perfect opportunity for power endurance training.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">There are several keys to training power endurance:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<li class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-family: CMB10; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: CMB10;">Consistent routes</span></b><span style="font-family: CMB10; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: CMB10;"> </span><span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: CMR10;">- <i>the routes should be consistent without
the opportunity for large rests.<br />
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<li class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-family: CMB10; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: CMB10;">Power and Strength</span></b><span style="font-family: CMB10; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: CMB10;"> </span><span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: CMR10;">- <i>the routes should have a mix of
powerful moves and smaller moves on bad holds.<br />
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<li class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-family: CMB10; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: CMB10;">Desire</span></b><span style="font-family: CMB10; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: CMB10;"> </span><span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: CMR10;">- <i>power training is mentally hard. You've got to want to get better,
getting tired is not a bad thing.<br />
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<li class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-family: CMB10; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: CMB10;">Goal </span></b><span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: CMR10;">- <i>getting
to the top without falling. It helps when you are trying to redpoint a route
to remind yourself of the goal. It can get boring trying the same route
over and over, but as a part of a workout it will make you stronger.<o:p></o:p></i></span></li>
</ul>
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<u><span style="font-family: CMBX12; font-size: 14.5pt;">Power Endurance Drills</span></u><span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;"><br />
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<span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">The following are some drills that you can do on your own or with
a partner to increase your power endurance.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><u><span style="font-family: CMB10; font-size: 11pt;">Bouldering<br />
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<span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">Increase the number (volume) of boulder problems that you are
attempting in a workout. Decrease the rest time between problems and always
start each attempt from the first move (don't work individual moves). This
allows you to pull lots of hard moves in a short period of time. Try and do
three or four boulder problems in 5 minutes then a short rest 3-5 minutes, and
repeat 3-4 times.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><u><span style="font-family: CMB10; font-size: 11pt;">Linked <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Boulder</st1:place></st1:city> Problems<o:p></o:p></span></u></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;"><br />
Linking together two or three boulder problems is a very effective way of
extending the number of moves that you are doing. Start with a hard problem
that you can barely do, move to one that you can do quite easily but can't stop
and rest/recover on, and then move on to a problem that is again quite hard for
you. You will have to take this drill into account when you are setting
problems or else it will be too hard to link them together. Two things can be
accomplished with this drill; one you are climbing lots of hard moves; and two
you are climbing routes that you have already done so you should be determined
and will yourself not to fall.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">With this drill you can partner up with one or two people and
rotate through. Attempt </span><span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">each link up 3 times with 3-5 minutes for rest in between
attempts. If you are not </span><span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">completing 20 moves then try and change up the boulder problems
that you are doing, if you are always completing the linkup then make the
boulder problems harder.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">This drill is especially effective when you are starting the
transition between bouldering and power endurance training. The problems should
still be very hard and chances are you will not be on the wall for more than 3
minutes per attempt.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><u><span style="font-family: CMB10; font-size: 11pt;">Redpoints<o:p></o:p></span></u></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font-family: CMB10;"><b><u><br /></u></b></span><span style="font-family: CMR10;">Redpointing routes can be a great way of training power endurance
if you are making </span></span><span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">it at least 15 moves into the route each time and the route does
not provide lots of </span><span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">areas for resting. If you do not have long routes available to you
then you can link </span><span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">routes together in a similar fashion to the linked boulder
problems, or try and be tired </span><span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">by the time you go to start redpointing.</span></div>
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<b><u><span style="font-family: CMB10; font-size: 11pt;">Circuit Training<o:p></o:p></span></u></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">Make your own climbing circuit of between 20 and 40 moves. The
moves should be </span><span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">powerful, consistent and not provide holds for resting. Try to
vary the terrain that the </span><span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">circuit crosses and try and distribute the move/hold types evenly
for both arms. The </span><span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">great thing about circuit training is that you can tailor it to
your needs. You set the </span><span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">circuit for yourself and if it is too easy you can make the holds
harder or take away </span><span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">footholds. If it is too hard then add a foothold or make the holds
slightly easier. Once </span><span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">again you should try and be on the wall for between 3-6 minutes
and attempt the same circuit 3 times in a row with a 5 minute rest in between
attempts. On the first attempt you should complete the circuit and on the third
attempt you should get very near the end. If you complete it all three times
then make it harder, and if you can't complete it the first time make it
easier.</span></div>
Iain McKenziehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01883953044352848041noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2781170214217126600.post-44645516671391354462013-02-07T16:50:00.002+00:002013-02-07T16:51:16.668+00:00Stabilizing for Clips (and Resting)<br />
<i>Most energy is wasted when you only have one hand on the wall therfore it is very important to be in a solid stance when clipping. <b>Some of the same principles apply to resting as well</b>, you want to distribute as much weight as possible to your feet and be able to relax your upper body.</i><br />
<br />
Here are a couple of things to consider when clipping:<br />
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• <b>Dead Hang</b> - Try to keep your arms straight and just hang from the holds. Don't squeeze too hard or try to pull yourself towards the clip until you are ready.<br />
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• <b>Concentrate on Your Feet </b>- Adjust your feet so they can pull or push you towards the clip. Are your feet on the biggest footholds? Are they too high? Make sure they won't slip, there's nothing like having to catch yourself on one arm while the other is still holding a loop of rope.<br />
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• <b>Centre Your Weight </b>- Try and distribute your weight as much as possible to your feet and the stabilize with your arms. You don't want your feet to be off to one side or the other causing you to have to pull extra hard with your arms.<br />
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• <b>Push into the holds</b> - If the hold is an undercling, sidepull or gaston make sure that your feet are pushing you into the hold. This will allow you to straighten your arm and increase the length that you can reach. It will make clipping alot more balanced as well. If possible try and avoid clipping off underclings, they require alot of core strength to hold onto.<br />
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Not all of those techniques will work on every clip but play around and learn how to hold yourself in Different clipping stances. Most of all don't rush it. Make your clip smoothly and efficiently. Practice clipping draws from all angles. From the left, right, top and bottom. You should be familiar with how to stabilize the draw when clipping, especially on steeper climbing like on roofs. Try out finger clips and reverse finger clips, ask someone at the wall if you don't know what these are.<br />
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<br />Iain McKenziehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01883953044352848041noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2781170214217126600.post-15389317192814606692013-02-05T11:41:00.002+00:002013-02-05T11:41:40.081+00:00GAMES WALL CLIMBERS PLAY by Pete Stacey<br />
<i>This article is based on a number of other articles that have focused on the use of games on climbing and bouldering walls. Some games and ideas are probably familiar to colleagues, others new and might require some trialing to adjust the basic tenet to suit their needs (and that of the group you are working with). I don’t know the original source of some of the ideas and apologies if anyone who has shown me an idea has been left out of the acknowledgements. Some are especially suitable for work with children; others are more open to all ages and ability levels.</i><br />
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Games on the climbing wall are fun and create interest. They can add to the value of the workout by creating an enjoyable atmosphere and usually extend the length of the workout. They can also be used to introduce beginners; to motivate the jaded rock-jock; and obviously they can be used as a specific training spot for skills development. The main point here is don’t be stuck into using them only as I have described them – think off the wall!! <br />
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<b>Add-on</b> - Two climbers of with similar ability play the game. Begin by agreeing on the first sequence of three to five moves. The first climber gets on the wall and climbs or traverses this sequence of moves. When the first climber finishes, he/she adds one more move. The moves can be marked by chalk, tape or memorized. Each time a climber completes the sequence he/she adds on another move. You can play "hands only" where any foot hold can be used, or specify both handholds and footholds. Continue to repeat this pattern until exhaustion. Great climbing game for building endurance and memorizing sequences.<br />
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<b>Pointer</b> - This is mostly a traversing game since it requires a partner to "point". The person designated as the pointer will use a broom handle or any pole to point out the next hold. The climber begins climbing. The pointer taps the next hold. This should be times so the next hold is tapped just ahead of the person climbing. A good pointer makes it challenging but not beyond the climber's ability. The game ends when the climber falls. The climber and pointer then switch positions. This excellent practice for developing your on-sight ability.<br />
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<b>Hoops</b> – Take a variety of gym hoops and get a climber to traverse along a section. Hold the hoop at right angles to the wall so the climber has to climb through the hoop. Use a variety of hoops and place them at different heights so the climber has to drop down or climb up/down and through the hoops. Use different sized hoops to make it more interesting with smaller hoops! Good practice for balance and awareness of positioning the body.<br />
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<b>Memory</b> - The first person points out a sequence of 4 to 10 moves. There are no markings placed on the wall. The second person has to climb the route remembering each hold. The value of this climbing game is it teaches you to remember the holds in the route, making it an easier transition from preview to climbing.<br />
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<b>Take Away</b> - Create a route of about 20 holds. Mark the holds with chalk marks. Each climber climbs the route. After each successful climb/traverse the finishing climber rubs out a chalk mark. If the next climber cannot climb/traverse it without falling the turn is passed to the next person. If no one can do it the original climber must prove it can be done. If he cannot do the move the mark is put back on.<br />
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<b>Tag</b> - Several people on a bouldering wall play tag. The first person is "it" and tries to climb to another person and touch them. The person being "tagged" then must tag someone else excluding the person just touched. The previous person earns a rest and can climb down until the next person is tagged. Greatly improves endurance/stamina. This is a good climbing game for youth teams.<br />
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<b>Dyno</b> - Place one or two foot holds and one or two hand holds. Place a large hold higher above the handholds. Each person takes turns "dynoing" to the hold. The dyno can be vertical, off vertical or even horizontal. Improves dynamic climbing.<br />
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<b>One Arm / One Foot</b> - Two or more climbers decide on a sequence and attempt to complete it using one arm. This can be done as an add-on or take-away climbing game. This game improves dead-point ability and greatly strengthens your arms/legs. The version of this climbing game using one foot will greatly improve body tension and trunk strength.<br />
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<b>Quickdraw Climbing Game</b> - Designate 8-10 'goals' (e.g., holes in the wall, big holds) and place the same number of quick draws in a location near them (say hanging on another hole. Person must then climb back and forth from the pile of quickdraws, taking one quickdraw at a time to the goals (one for each goal). This also makes players think about strategy, whether to go for the far away goals first or last. Improves Endurance, Strength.<br />
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<b>Round-About</b> - One person is 'in'. They select a place with quite a few good holds. The other partner has to try to climb around then in circles while the person 'in' has to try to stop them by getting to the holds before they do. When the person goes for more than 10 seconds without changing a hand or foot they swap places. <br />
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<b>Blind Climb</b> - Blindfold a climber. Start to climb by feeling with hands and feet all around the wall. See who can get the furthest without falling. Improves awareness and sense of touch for feet and hands. Only roped climbs.<br />
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<b>Get Dressed!</b> - Hang different items on the wall (hats, gloves, pants, shorts, jackets, shoes, etc.) or even on the ground. The idea is that the climber must pass through the wall and whenever he or she finds something, they must put it on! Try the same thing but now undressing. It is a great climbing game to work out resting positions and endurance. <br />
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<b>Amputee</b> - This climbing game is where 1 person boulders from 1 point to another. Other people from a set distance throw a small soft ball or sponge at the climber. If a limb of the climber is hit then climber can no longer use that limb. If the climbers head is hit they lose. If climber is hit in the back 3 times they lose. If climber falls they lose. If climber gets to the last point then climber wins. A spotter returns the sponge/ball to the throwers. Works strength, balance, and endurance (sometimes). <br />
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<b>Twister</b> – Fit out a section of the wall with a variety of holds in 4 colours only. Have a board with each of the same 4 colours painted – one to a quarter [just like a board for the game "Twister" (™)]. It has the same rules as normal Twister. Training Value: Improves endurance and balance.<br />
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<b>Dice</b> - works with two or more people. The first person chooses a point to begin and a point to end. All start with 20 points or other similar number. They then roll a dice to see how many holds they can use between the starting and ending holds. If the first person completes their route then the rest of the players must complete it, losing points for failure. If the first person doesn't complete the problem, then it goes to the second person and so on. Training Value: strength, balance.<br />
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<b>Lapping</b> - This climbing game includes as many players as wanted. The first climber traverses across the walls and makes the most laps as he can. Then the second climber breaks the record of laps the first climber did. If he does, he wins, and if does not, he loses. Training Value: endurance/stamina.<br />
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<b>4x4</b> - Pick four routes you know you can do on the bouldering wall. Do each one four times, make a loop and see how many times you can do each one. Training Value: Bouldering,<br />
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<b>Time's Up</b> - For as many players as desired. Start with a ten second time limit. First player gets ready, and a time keeper says when to go. The climber gets to as many holds as he/she can before the time keeper yells, "Time". Second climber tries to beat that number, (same path if you want to make it harder). If the climber does, he wins, that's the new goal. After everyone goes, end of round one, add time, and start round two. A game continues until one remains, or everyone is tired. Training Value: endurance, stamina, fluidity, memory, recognition;<br />
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<b>ELIMINATOR</b> - Works best with a maximum of four players. Find a route each of the players can do. The first player chooses a hold to take away. If you come off you have 3 chances. The first player then goes to the back of the queue and this goes on until there is only 1 player left or no holds left. Works best with fingery holds. Training Value: strength, perseverance.<br />
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<b>Shark Attack </b>- This climbing game can be played with as many climbers as you can fit on the wall. It is very similar to musical chairs. The climbers start in a circle in the middle of the floor facing inwards - when you shout "Shark Attack!" they must get onto the wall as quickly as they can. The last person on the wall is the looser. The looser is either out of the game, or "looses" an arm or leg. You can add many variations to this game e.g. climbers may not use legs, etc. A great game! Training Value: A bit of fun and competition!<br />
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<b>Pirates of the Carabiner</b> - Buy a couple of haggard foam swords at ToysR’Us and boulder around the wall bludgeoning each other with them. Last one to fall wins and pull ups are awarded to those who are foolish enough to drop their swords. Training Value: none but it’s great fun! (ok, endurance)<br />
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<b>Graffitti</b> - Pick a section of wall with lots of holds, and a starting jug at a moderately low height. Start both hands on the jug, and see how many other holds you can move to and hold without moving your feet off your original hold. The end hold must be used with both hands, and held for 2 or 3 seconds. Use a few different colours of sidewalk chalk to see who can tag the most number of additional holds. Each time one is held, it is tagged with the appropriate colour chalk, and then is off limits. Training Value: footwork and balance.<br />
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<b>Lucky Draw</b> - This climbing game is great for a group of climbers or for training by yourself. Write down all the climbing moves you can think of (e.g. lay-back, gaston, drop-knee, pinch, dyno etc...) then cut it out fold them and put into a hat/chalk-bag. Now draw three papers and make a boulder route using those movements (the ones you wrote on the paper). Or get someone to do that movement and others must guess what it is. It sounds boring but kids and teens love it.<br />
Training Value: Use of techniques,<br />
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<b>Add On – Pointer</b> - Ever thought of combining your two favourite bouldering games? Your partner chooses your first moves (1-3 moves depending on you), then he/she must do those moves and the next moves you chose and so on until one of you can’t do the move. You find out your partners weakness and find your strength and end up working both your strength and weakness. Training Value: endurance, memory and technique.<br />
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<b>Gladiator</b> - Best played with 4 people, two climbing two belaying. The climbers number themselves 1 and 2. 1 ties a short sling around harness loosely enough to be pulled off but too loose as it will fall off. Climber 1 then goes up the wall - about 1/4 of the way Climber 2 has to chase him! If climber 1 gets to the top without losing his sling he wins if climber 2 gets the sling he wins. When done swap over. Training Value: Increases speed.<br />
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<b>Simon Says</b> - You can play this with a group of people. There is a leader (Simon), this leader gives the group 15 seconds to get off the ground and stay there. After that time, the leader calls out various commands: "Simon says... move your left foot." for example and everyone must move the nominated limb to a new hold unless the command is not prefixed with "Simon says". Players are out if they fall off or do not obey the commands. Training Value: Stamina, balance.<br />
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<b>Wimbledon</b> – On a slab or corner climb get the climber to hold a tennis ball in each hand and then climb the route. This climbing game allows some use of hands for balance and a little pulling on massive jugs, but real success comes from the thighs. This can be run either as a skill developer on its own or as a wee competition. NOTE: watch as some people will try and use finger tips to cheat and makes themselves prone to finger tweaks. Training Value: Improves footwork.<br />
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<b>I went to the wall and used...</b> - One person starts at one end of the bouldering wall. Their spotter calls out "I went to the wall and used a..." then they call out a move e.g. crimp, undercut smear etc. After the move has been completed the climber steps off and the partner repeats the move. The new spotter calls out the next move to be used. "I went to the wall and used a crimp and a smear." Repeat the moves for as long as you can manage it. Training Value: develops stamina, balance.<br />
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<b>Tag Team</b> - Two people start at the bottom and race up to the top then jump down and "Tag" the next person then they race up to the top and race back down last one down loses. Training Value: speed and stamina<br />
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<b>Taps</b> - There will have to be a person on the floor to keep track of totals. This game was made up to assist the young climbers with concentration. What they have to do is climb a route like normal but every time they use any hand they have to first tap their head and then count out loud starting at one. The goal is to have the climber try to beat their personal best by trying to lessen the number of times they use their hands. Training Value: Concentration<br />
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<b>Arch Runner</b> - For this climbing game find a decent wall at least 20 feet long (horizontal) and about 12-16 feet high, and some coloured chalk or tape (something to mark holds). Start at one end and climb all the way up, then all the way across, and down. Run back to the starting point and repeat, however you may not reuse old moves. Ground starts are allowed and recommended. Depending on the number of holds on the wall, try to get at least 4 or 5 runs in under a set time. The idea of running back to the start keeps the heart rate up and hinders setup for the next climb, forcing you to think on the wall. Also, try to stay at least 2/3 up (like it’s an arch of a bridge). Training Value: Endurance, quick thinking on the wall, strength, and reduces use of unnecessary hand moves.<br />
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<b>Tap Its</b> - Working in pairs or more, one person chooses a hold for each hand and one foot. With the other foot they then see how many holds they can touch whist their partner counts. They then swap places using the same holds, the person that touches the most wins. All about flexibility and realizing where and how far they can reach. They are not allowed to move the other foot or hands. Training Value: Realization of reach and flexibility.<br />
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<b>Freeze </b>- This climbing game is most fun on a traverse. All participants engage in traversing at the same time in the same direction at different locations on the route while one stays on the floor and randomly calls out "freeze." When that command is given the climbers must cease all movement, even if in the middle of moving from one hold to the next, for a pre-decided amount of time. Climbers may not move until given a "go" from the officiator timing the freeze. If a climber moves while in a "freeze" or falls off the wall he/she is out until next round. Last man standing (hanging) wins. Difficulty level can change based on the route or the time to hold a "freeze." Training Value: Endurance strength, body position technique, and fun.<br />
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<b>Touch Holds</b> – Climbers take a comfortable position on the wall just off the floor. They then have to touch as many handholds as possible without moving their feet. This can also be done by moving feet without moving hands. Training Value: stamina, balance, body awareness, footwork.<br />
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<b>Relay Race</b> - Split a group into two. Each team has a sling with the same number of krabs as climbers clipped to it. Hang the slings for each team halfway along a traverse section. Start each team from opposite ends of the wall - each climber sets off and traverses the wall to their sling and unclips a krab, drops off the wall and runs back to their group. The next climber repeats and so on until the first group has unclipped all their krabs from the sling. If someone falls off, the next person has their turn. After this first round, swap routes and repeat on the other traverse. The winning team is the one with the highest number of krabs totalled up from 2 races. Training value – good fun!<br />
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<i>SUMMARY – There are probably as many games not listed here as those that are. Visual restriction games with greased or painted goggles are well known; try repeating Ray McHaffie’s feat of climbing in boxing gloves and push the grade out! Don’t forget to warm up, think about movement skills; be careful with young people and children. Above all have fun! Send me any more wall games for inclusion in the next article and give me feedback to improve any of these games. Finally, don’t just chuck them at clients without having tried them yourself and think about their place on SPA and CWA courses – they are just one part of the whole picture.</i><br />
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<i>Thanks to: Jill Whittaker at Thornbridge for letting me use some of her ideas here, to Wolfgang and Sarah for other ideas, and people who have let me watch their sessions.</i><br />
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Iain McKenziehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01883953044352848041noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2781170214217126600.post-9575559474923852602013-01-30T17:31:00.000+00:002013-01-30T17:31:01.693+00:00Urban Tooling and the High Line... <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="text-align: start;">Here is a bit more Urban Tooling on the Bridge with Giles... </span></div>
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<br />Iain McKenziehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01883953044352848041noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2781170214217126600.post-13511430109520495662013-01-29T16:43:00.002+00:002013-02-08T15:37:23.881+00:00Opposing Muscle Strength<br />
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<span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">Opposing muscles are the muscles that you do not use while
climbing but are used to stabilize joints and move them in the opposite
direction. Training your opposing muscles is very important when training
strength to prevent injuries and to improve the strength of you climbing
muscles. When strengthening your opposing muscles you are stretching the muscle
fibers of your climbing muscles and that will allow them to be able to contract
more, thus giving them more strength. These muscles can be strengthened at the
end of a workout and will not affect your workout.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">Some of the opposing muscles and strength training drills are:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><u><span style="font-family: CMB10; font-size: 11pt;">Back of Your Forearms<o:p></o:p></span></u></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">The muscles on the back of your forearm are generally very weak
compared to your </span><span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">muscles on the front of your forearms. This can lead to wrist
problems because the </span><span style="font-family: CMR10;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">wrist joint is not </span><span style="font-size: 15px;">stabilized</span><span style="font-size: 11pt;"> properly.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">To strengthen the muscles on the back of your forearm there are
several good drills.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">Reverse wrist curls where you keep your palms facing the floor and
curl your hand back towards your elbow. This can be done with or without
weight, or by rolling a weight up with a broom handle or something similar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">Pushing and opening your hands in sand. This is great for constant
resistance throughout a range of motion. Place a closed hand in a pile of sand
and push down and out with your fingers as you open your hand.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">Just opening your hand and extending your fingers as far as
possible. Try to keep the </span><span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">back of your hand in line with your forearm as you do this. This
one is good because </span><span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">it can be done anywhere; at school, in a car, or even at the
dinner table.</span></div>
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<b><u><span style="font-family: CMB10; font-size: 11pt;">Triceps<o:p></o:p></span></u></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">While triceps are used alot when climbing they are not as used as often as your biceps and </span><span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">this can lead to elbow problems. Triceps are easy to strengthen.
Chair dips, pushups, and tricep presses are all ways of strengthening these
muscles. Not only that but stronger triceps will increase the range of motion
in your lockoffs.</span></div>
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<b><u><span style="font-family: CMB10; font-size: 11pt;">Lower Back<o:p></o:p></span></u></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: CMR10; font-size: 11pt;">Look at the <a href="http://www.iainmckenzie.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/core-body-strength.html" target="_blank">core strength section</a> for some drills to
strengthen your lower back.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
Iain McKenziehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01883953044352848041noreply@blogger.com0