Wednesday 19 June 2013

IFSC European Youth Bouldering Championships Sofia - Keep upto date

The weekend of the 29th & 30th June sees the first round of the IFSC European Youth Bouldering Cup, in Sofia, Bulgaria, where 6 members of Team GB will be competing.

GB Team Member Gracie Martin did a nice round up blog post on the first round in Grindelwald; http://graciemartinclimber.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/making-history.html

Nathan Phillips, James Mabon, Tara Hayes, Rachel Carr, Gracie Martin and Sidonie Graham will all travel to Europe with Team Manager Tom Greenall for this second round. Tom has written a good article on the BMC Site here;

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/team-gbs-junior-boulderers-prepare-to-launch-european-youth-cup-campaign

Over the course of the event there are a number of different ways of keeping upto date with the progress of the team.

Firstly, Tom will be tweeting, so if you don’t follow him are keen to keep upto date then follow;

http://twitter.com/GreenallTom

I assume the hashtag that will be used for all team GB related information will be the standard one #gbjuniorboulderingteam

Secondly, Tim Hatch, in the same way he developed the App to keep track of the scores during the senior Bouldering Team Competitions, he has modified the app to keep track of the scores during the Junior Bouldering Competitions. It worked well in Grindelwald, what you need to remember is that the competition is "scramble format" and the scores are only entered once the competitor has done all 8 problems. Anyway, the app can be downloaded for the iPhone from the App Store, it works on the iPad its just smaller.

The app is called “IFSC Youth” and can be downloaded here;

http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ifsc-europe/id649331932?mt=8

Thirdly, the event might be webcast, I have emailed the BCMF and they have said they are looking into it. I have asked for confirmation so as soon as I hear I will update this post. 

UPDATED EMAIL RESPONSE FROM BCMF;

"They still work on it... Once they manage it, I will let you know immediately. Besides don't expect something like World Cups broadcasting, it will be maybe one camera but still we think is something to enjoy :))"

29/06/13 - Update

"Finally they did something...

Here is the link;

http://m.ustream.tv/channel/boulderland

As I told you, this is only one camera, but still is something :))

And here is the updated program:

Saturday, June 29th

09:00 - Warm-up zone opening

10:00 - 11:30 - Qualification Youth B Female

12:00 - 13:30 - Qualification Youth B Male

14:00 - 15:30 - Qualification Youth A and Juniors Female

16:00 - 17:30 - Qualification Youth A and Juniors Male

For tomorrow no changes. "



The timings are (Sofia is +1 so ie 08:30 listed is 07:30 UK time) ;

Friday, June 28th
19:00 - 20:00 Registration of participants (Competition Venue)
20:00 - 20:30 Technical meeting

Saturday, June 29th
08:30 - Warm-up zone opening
09:30 - 11:00 - Qualification Youth B female
11:20 - 12:50 - Qualification Youth B male
13:10 - 14:40 - Qualification Youth A female
14:50 - 16:20 - Qualification Youth Juniors female
16:40 - 18:10 - Qualification Youth A male
18:30 - 20:00 - Qualification Juniors male

* Depending on the numbers of the competitors, the program may vary

Sunday, June 30th
08:30 - Isolation zone opening Youth B, Youth A and Junior female
09:30 - Isolation zone closing
10:00 - 12:00 - Finals categories Youth B, Youth A and Junior female (6 competitors/cat., 3 boulders /cat.)
12:00 - Isolation zone opening Youth B, Youth A and Junior male
12:30 - Isolation zone closing
13:00 – 15:00 - Finals categories Youth B, Youth A and Junior male (6 competitors/cat., 3 boulders/cat.)
15:30 - Award ceremonytimings etc can be found on the IFSC Website;




Friday 7 June 2013

Bonehill Rocks - Dartmoor

I was running a NICAS Level 5 and Primary Centre re-induction at the Quay Climbing Centre in Exeter, I made a rough plan to catch up with Mark Bullock to discuss a trip to Yosemite we are planning and Mark suggested having a dash out to sample some of the Bouldering on Dartmoor before having some food and drink.

Having never been to the area before it was too good an opportunity to pass up, although my finger is still not 100% Mark promised a nice easy session... 

First impressions did not let me down, the area is stunning... 

Hound Tor from the carpark


Approach into Bonehill Rocks

The weather was stunning, it was warm, very quiet and there was a gentle breeze... 

Because the sun was low it meant that certain areas you were able to get quite *arty* with the photos, here is Mark on the *Warm Up Slab*


Mark Bullock on "4a Crack" on Warm Up Slab 
 After having a whistle stop tour and getting quite a few problems done we both went over and had a play on the Arete near the Wave ...

Iain on (spent more time off it!) "Problem 86" on The Wave
The Full Guide for the Area can be found here;

http://javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorBouldering/index.shtml

luckily my finger didn't swell too badly after the session!!

Anyway, here is a quick video of a few of the problems, all in all a stunning location with some excellent Bouldering... Massive thanks to Mark for an excellent evening ...




Competition Information; Bouldering in Vail & Lead in Edinburgh

The senior bouldering team are in Vail this weekend competing in the World Cup.

The event will be webcast live on the IFSC Site and the plan is as follows (UK Times)…

Friday 7th June 2013
1600 Female Qualification Round Begins
2200 Male Qualification Round Begins

Saturday 8th June 2013
1700 Semi-Final
2345 Final

Watch the event here; http://www.ifsc-climbing.org if you have any problems with the IFSC Site it is also on their YouTube channel; http://www.youtube.com/ifscchannel

If you can’t watch because you are at work or going out and if you have an iPhone you can keep upto date with the live scores as they happen by the app designed & developed by Tim Hatch. It’s called “IFSC Boulder” and can be downloaded here; http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ifsc-boulder/id616662988?mt=8

Full information about the Vail event can be found here; (just remember the UK is & 7 hours ahead) http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/2013/13_WC_VA.pdf

If you use Twitter the hashtag #IFSCwc is used to keep upto date. Post or comment on the competition.

This weekend also sees the first round of the IFSC European Youth Championships (lead), at Ratho, Edinburgh, where 16 members of Team GB will be competing

I am pretty sure the event is not being webcast, I can’t find any information on the IFSC Site or the Ratho site to say it is being webcast, if anyone knows any differently please let me know.

Tim Hatch, in the same way he developed the App to keep track of the scores during the senior Bouldering Team Competitions, he has modified the app to keep track of the scores during the Youth Competitions. The app can be downloaded for the iPhone from the App Store, it works on the iPad its just smaller.

The app is called “IFSC Youth” and can be downloaded here;

http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ifsc-europe/id649331932?mt=8

The full details, timings etc can be found on the IFSC Website; 

http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/2013/13EYC_ED.pdf

Good luck to all taking part.